Breakfast With a Master Weaver

August. 2012.  We are traveling in the state of Oaxaca, in southern Mexico, seeking out fine artisan crafts for Chiripa.

Bulmaro Perez is one of the finest rug weavers in Mexico. He was born and lives in the Zapotec village of Teotitlán del Valle, in the Central Valley of Oaxaca. This is Mexico’s weaving epicenter, and Bulmaro is among the “best of the best.”  Bulmaro is regularly invited to display his work in U.S. museums and galleries. Bulmaro learned the craft from his father, a nationally recognized maestro, and has taken his father’s craft to a new level. 

Bulmaro and His Father

Bulmaro is steeped in the Zapotec weaving tradition, but often puts a new twist on traditional Zapotec designs. His rugs are made of pure wool, and he uses dyes made from natural local materials like cochineal, witch hazel, indigo, marigolds and pomegranate shells.  Cochineal, used to make the color red, is made from an insect that grows on nopal cactus. In colonial times, it was one of Mexico's most important export products (next to gold and silver) because it was so highly valued in Europe. We have watched Bulmaro dye the wool that he uses.

Natural Dye Materials

Bulmaro is a family man and community leader. Like every other adult male in Teotitlán, he devotes a substantial amount of time each year to village administration and service. He is also a very gentle and hospitable man. His home is filled with flowers, including some unusual varieties that he has collected. 

Bulmaro speaks to his wife in soft Zapotec tones. He pads around on bare feet as he shows his woven creations. His eyes dance with delight at the beauty around him. He smiles easily, nods and tilts his head in courtesy. 

Before showing us his rugs, Bulmaro insisted on buying us breakfast at his favorite taco restaurant. The restaurant specializes in tacos made from beef cheeks. We had to quit after three tacos. He ate five, and with gusto, because he didn’t know when he would get lunch. After breakfast we went to Bulmaro’s house, where we selected some beautiful rugs (including lovely Tree of Life and Zapotec Patio patterns). See them for yourself at Chiripa! - JM

Tree of Life

Mountains and Rain

August, 2012.  We are traveling in southern Mexico, looking for distinctive artisan crafts for Chiripa.

It is the rainy season in Oaxaca.  In the morning, strands of misty clouds hang from the lovely shoulders of the green mountains, like elegant necklaces.  

Brilliant flowers glitter in the soft air.  

After an afternoon shower, a ray of sunlight breaks through.  It drapes the weathered old cathedral in glory, and crowns it with a rainbow.

In the village of Teotitlan del Valle, weavers listen to the rain and peek out from under dripping tile roofs.  Then they lean into their work once again, crafting elegant wool rugs on wooden pedal looms.  The rugs (tapetes) emerge in glorious patterns and colors from nature.  The variety is endless, put a popular pattern is “Mountains and Rain.” 

 At Chiripa, you can see tapetes from some of the best weavers in Mexico. -JM

Zapotec Weavers

From the log kept by JM on the Chiripa buying trip in February and March of 2010.

March 1, 2010. Today we made our regular pilgrimage to the Zapotec Village of Teotitlan del Valle--epicenter of Mexican weaving. You can buy Zapotec rugs in Oaxaca, but you really must got to Teotitlan to get to the heart of the amtter. We normally take the bus from the Abastos Market, but today we got a ride from our good friend Bulmaro Perez (one of the most famous of the current generation of Mexican weavers). On our way out of Oaxaca we stopped at one of Bulmaro's favorite restaurants for a tasty blue-collar breakfast of enchiladas stuffed with barbecued beef.

Bulmaro Perez Mendoza with some of his beautiful tapestries.

When we got to Bulmaro's workshop, we were overwhelmed (as always) by the fine texture, elegant design, and rich natural colors of his rugs. (Bulmaro uses cochineal, indigo, marigold and other natural dyes.) Before long we had dozens of rugs scattered on the floor, and were lost in indecision. Bulmaro, the consummate and congenial salesman, padded around on his bare feet, smiled and pulled out more rugs for our consideration. At last we are down to a few select beauties (more than we had badgeted for, but far fewer than we wanted to take home). Some were woven by Bulmaro's father, an undisputed grand maestro. We are sure that you will love them (when they get to Madison).

Which rugs to choose . . .

In Teotitlan, we also visited other old friends including the Chavez and Santiago families. From them, we acquired a fine selection of finely woven wool rugs, table runners, purses and place mats.

Federico Chavez ("el veterano"), shown here with his wife Dolores (and dyed wool ready for weaving), has had rugs displayed in museums throughout the world. The Chavez family dyes its own wool with natural dyes, and in the family workshop there is a loom for each of the five family members.


Federico's son Eric (in the photo above) has fallen behind on his weaving, because he works long hours as education director of the new (and already world-renowned) Oaxaca Textile Museum. (You should visit the museum at 917 Hldalgo, just east of the zocalo in Oaxaca.)

An exhibition of Huichol garments was the featured show when we visited the museum in March.

Daughter Janet has opened a sweet retail shop in Oaxaca, where you can buy one of the family's fine rugs and talk to Janet in English, French, Spanish or Zapotec. The shop, called Galeria Fe y Lola is tucked into a courtyard on Cinco de Mayo, just down from Santo Domingo and next door to the little Gecko Coffee shop. Son Omar is still in school, but helps in the shop and is already an accomplished weaver.

Dolores, Omar, Federico and Janet at the entrance to the shop.

Chicago Visit

We interrupt the Chiripa buying trip log to tell you about a fantastic opportunity in Chicago. The National Museum of Mexican Art is hosting a Folk Art Festival from now until Sunday, October 25.

We took the opportunity to drive down and visit two of our close Oaxaca friends who are part of this special exhibit and sale. Jacobo Angeles (carved and intricately painted wooden figures-alebrijes) and Bulmaro Perez (hand woven and naturally died wool rugs) have brought dozens of samples of their expert craftmanship.

Jacobo is always laughing;
he's holding on to the loom that Bulmaro shipped to the museum to demonstrate his craft.

If you have the opportunity to visit Chicago and the museum you won't find a better place to see their work in the Midwest (except at Chiripa, of course!) and to meet with the artist and learn about the natural die processes that they use. Please tell Jacobo and Bulmaro that we sent you! When the museum closed we took Jacobo and Bulmaro to dinner. They chose the cuisine (Mexican, of course) and we headed for Frontera Grill, the Rick Bayless restaurant on Clark St. in downtown Chicago.

Jacobo and Bulmaro at Frontera Grill, Chicago.

From the mezcal apartif and through the meal we caught up on each other's businesses and learned about their family traditions for the coming Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos) celebrations. By chance, Rick was at the restaurant that night and Jacobo and Bulmaro were fortunate enought to meet him and invite him to their homes when he travels to Mexico. It was a very special night!

All camera's came out for the photo op with Rick Bayless.
Jacobo is holding some of his work.

I can't say enough good things about the National Museum of Mexican Art. This is the very best time to see it if you are interested in Dia de los Muertos. A large exhibit space is dedicated to altars (ofrendas) that honor individuals or groups of people who have passed beyond this world.

Other exhibitors at the Folk Art Festival: Guillermina Aguilar from Ocotlan, Oaxaca (clay figures); Miriam Castaneda from Xoxocotla, Morelos (paper Mache); Florentina Lopez de Jesus from Xochistlahuaca, Guerrero (back strap loom weaving); Jose Jorge Garcia from Oaxaca, Oaxaca (silver filigree jewelry) and the Mondragon Family from Toluca, Estado de Mexico (sugar skulls).

The Mondragon family comes to the museum a month before Dia de los Muertos to make 20,000 sugar skulls. They will write a name on the skull if you wish. The museum sells out.

The photogenic Gillermina Aguilar graciously consented to a photo.
Her family's work can be found at Chiripa.

It looks like a cold and rainy weekend ahead. Our Mexican friends are shivering. Go say hello from us and spread some warmth!

Mitla, Rugs, and Trees

A post from the log that JM kept on the August 09 buying trip to Mexico for Chiripa. -kl

"We caught the familiar brown-and-yellow bus as it left the second-class bus depot in Oaxaca’s gritty Abastos Market (“abastos” means “provisions,” and thousands of people of limited means buy and sell daily necessities at this big market). We rode to the end of the line, and got off at the village of Mitla. The village is an important textile center, and is also the site of important pre-Columbian ruins.

KZ contemplates the plethora of patterns at Mitla.

The pattern we often see in rugs sold at Chiripa.

"On our return ride, we got off at Teotitlán del Valle, the most important of Oaxaca’s rug-weaving villages. There, we greeted old friends and picked out a lovely selection of hand-woven rugs, purses, pillow covers and table runners for Chiripa (guaranteed to warm and brighten your environment).

The Santiago Family in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico.

Another pattern at Mitla similar to the design in the rug above.

"Our last stop was the village of Tule, to see what may be the world’s largest tree. The famous 'Tule Tree' is about 2,000 years old, and has a trunk as big as a house! The tree is still healthy, and green with new growth. But it is surrounded by a clutter of souvenir shops and food stands, and expanding development threatens its water supply." -JM Aug 6,2009

On to Oaxaca

A post from the log that JM kept on the August 09 buying trip to Mexico for Chiripa. -kl

"At dawn, we caught a taxi to the Puebla bus terminal and boarded for the 4-hour trip to Oaxaca in southern Mexico. It is a beautiful ride, through wild mountain lands and cactus forests. But we were happy when the bus pulled in to the new first-class terminal in Oaxaca.

"On our first afternoon in Oaxaca, we spent a little time in the bustling market southeast of the zócalo. Our friend Kathy boldly accepted an offer to try a sample of chapulines (fried grasshoppers), which are widely sold by street vendors here. She decided, however, that the sample was plenty (something about an oily taste, and legs sticking in her throat). Good protein, though.

KZ tastes grasshoppers in the Oaxaca market.

"On our first night in Oaxaca, we had dinner with our young friends Eric and Elsa. Eric is Zapotec, the eldest son of traditional weavers in the indigenous village of Teotitlán del Valle. If he marries in Teotitlán, Eric will receive a share of village land and will assume the rights and considerable responsibilities of village membership.

"But like many Mexicans, Eric is torn between 2 worlds. He learned Spanish and Zapotec at home (each village speaks a different dialect), but is fluent in English and adept with electronic media. He has traveled widely in the U.S. (including Madison, where he presented a weaving demonstration at Chiripa). At a young age, he is already Director of Education at the magnificent new Textile Museum in Oaxaca (if you are ever in Oaxaca, you must check out the museum on Independencia, just a few blocks east of the zócalo).

Eric in the center at Chiripa with his father Federico on the left and Elsa on the right.

"Eric worries that Oaxaca’s rich weaving tradition is dying out. The craft is still practiced on wooden and backstrap looms in villages throughout the region. But even here, cheap industrial textiles are quickly replacing hand-woven products for home use. Young people are not learning many of the traditional skills, and the older generation will eventually be gone. Eric works long hours to document and share the treasures that still exist, and to help struggling artisans find viable markets. Chiripa is trying to help." -JM, Aug 5, 2009

Tinsmiths and Weavers

[Continuing journal written by Chiripa partners on the August 2008 buying trip.]

August 25

Before we headed out of town, we searched out a small tin workshop in downtown Oaxaca, to see tin ornaments being made. The ornaments were not pressed by a machine, as you might expect, but were individually cut and then hammered into shape by a tinsmith using a variety of different small hammers.



The tinsmith’s wife then painted the individual ornaments by hand, with painstaking care. We bought a number of the lovely ornaments for our Chiripa customers.



When we are in Oaxaca, we always make the bus trip to the village to Teotitlán del Valle. This time we also went to the nearby village of Santa Ana del Valle (just up the road from the market town of Tlacolula). Teotitlán and Santa Ana are known for making fine, handwoven wool rugs. Teotitlán is somewhat better known, and a bit more prosperous.

People in these and other area villages still speak Zapotec in their homes. Our friend Eric Chavez, a weaver’s son who grew up in Teotitlán, told us that each village has its own separate Zapotec dialect. These dialects are quite different from each other, so that it may be easier for people from different villages to communicate in Spanish, rather than in Zapotec.

The route to these villages leads down the Tlacolula Valley, past the ancient Tule tree (it was alive in the time of Christ, and is now one of the biggest living things in the world). Further down the road, past the weaving villages, you can visit the impressive pre-Hispanic ruins at Mitla (although we did not have time to visit Mitla on this trip).

In Teotitlán, we bought beautiful natural-dyed rugs and runners from our friends Bulmaro Perez and Federico Chavez, both recognized masters of the weaving craft. On hand-operated looms, these families still produce rich woolen rugs in the old way. Each rug starts with wool gathered from sheep in the surrounding highlands. The wool is carded and spun, colored with natural dyes such as cochineal, indigo and witch hazel, and then skillfully hand-woven into rich and elegant patterns. The families weave their ancient Zapotec tradition and individual craftsmanship into every rug.

Bulmaro demonstrates the natural dyes used in his beautiful rugs.

In Teotitlán, we also bought some warm, hand-knit wool caps from the Women’s Cooperative. We didn’t buy anything in Santa Ana this time, but did pay a visit to the parents of a friend’s acquaintance. Even though the parents did not know us, and were bereaved by a recent death in the family, they were kind enough to invite us for a meal. We had to decline, for lack of time, but will not soon forget their courtesy and hospitality.

Oaxaca-Weavers, Bulmaro Perez Mendoza

Summer marches on. The Sidewalk Sale was a huge success. Some treasured items from our first buying trip found new homes. We are now preparing lists and making initial contacts for the next trip to Mexico scheduled for later this month.

But, I never finished the reports and photos from the last trip! I'll do a couple posts to introduce you to some of our favorite people and places in Oaxaca. We'll start with the village of Teotitlan del Valle, a short trip outside of Oaxaca City. It is the center for quality rug weaving. One of our first contacts there was Bulmaro Perez Mendoza. It was a Chiripa (happy accident) that we met him. We were walking from the main highway into the village when a car stopped to offer us a ride. Nelson (Bulmaro's brother) wouldn't take no for an answer and all four of us piled into his small car that also carried his wife and two children. It was a happy ride and he took us to the weaving workshop of his family: Father and Sons Rugs (Centenario #27). We learned of the rug-making process including the use of natural materials in the dyes. The following photo is Bulmaro giving a demonstration to visiting tourists and his mother carding wool in the background.


The color red comes from the cochinilla bug that grows on the cactus. You can see the white spots on the cactus in the next photo. Depending on what is mixed with the red powder from the dried bugs (an acid like lime or a base like alum), the weaver is able to achieve different shades of red (from purple to cardinal red).


We were fortunate on our last trip to arrive just after the family had spent two months dying the wool for this year's rugs. We were shown an upstairs room lined with beautiful shades of naturally dyed wool.


Bulmaro's wife told us that after the wool is dyed it retains the smell of the plant used to color the yarn. In this next photo she is smelling pecans!


A new house has been built closer to the main highway and Nelson has moved in there to work in his own space. He has learned well from his brother.


I photographed an older man weaving on the patio, but it wasn't until later that I learned that he is the father of "Father and Sons Rugs."


One of the prize rugs we brought back to the shop is this spectacular tapestry of birds on a red cochinilla background. The rug is signed by Bulmaro. It's not up on the website, yet. Stop in the shop to see it. It measures about 2.5 x 5 feet and is $550.


The rugs at Chiripa are some of our most treasured products. We hope they go to homes where people will enjoy them as much as we do!