Zapotec Weavers

From the log kept by JM on the Chiripa buying trip in February and March of 2010.

March 1, 2010. Today we made our regular pilgrimage to the Zapotec Village of Teotitlan del Valle--epicenter of Mexican weaving. You can buy Zapotec rugs in Oaxaca, but you really must got to Teotitlan to get to the heart of the amtter. We normally take the bus from the Abastos Market, but today we got a ride from our good friend Bulmaro Perez (one of the most famous of the current generation of Mexican weavers). On our way out of Oaxaca we stopped at one of Bulmaro's favorite restaurants for a tasty blue-collar breakfast of enchiladas stuffed with barbecued beef.

Bulmaro Perez Mendoza with some of his beautiful tapestries.

When we got to Bulmaro's workshop, we were overwhelmed (as always) by the fine texture, elegant design, and rich natural colors of his rugs. (Bulmaro uses cochineal, indigo, marigold and other natural dyes.) Before long we had dozens of rugs scattered on the floor, and were lost in indecision. Bulmaro, the consummate and congenial salesman, padded around on his bare feet, smiled and pulled out more rugs for our consideration. At last we are down to a few select beauties (more than we had badgeted for, but far fewer than we wanted to take home). Some were woven by Bulmaro's father, an undisputed grand maestro. We are sure that you will love them (when they get to Madison).

Which rugs to choose . . .

In Teotitlan, we also visited other old friends including the Chavez and Santiago families. From them, we acquired a fine selection of finely woven wool rugs, table runners, purses and place mats.

Federico Chavez ("el veterano"), shown here with his wife Dolores (and dyed wool ready for weaving), has had rugs displayed in museums throughout the world. The Chavez family dyes its own wool with natural dyes, and in the family workshop there is a loom for each of the five family members.


Federico's son Eric (in the photo above) has fallen behind on his weaving, because he works long hours as education director of the new (and already world-renowned) Oaxaca Textile Museum. (You should visit the museum at 917 Hldalgo, just east of the zocalo in Oaxaca.)

An exhibition of Huichol garments was the featured show when we visited the museum in March.

Daughter Janet has opened a sweet retail shop in Oaxaca, where you can buy one of the family's fine rugs and talk to Janet in English, French, Spanish or Zapotec. The shop, called Galeria Fe y Lola is tucked into a courtyard on Cinco de Mayo, just down from Santo Domingo and next door to the little Gecko Coffee shop. Son Omar is still in school, but helps in the shop and is already an accomplished weaver.

Dolores, Omar, Federico and Janet at the entrance to the shop.