Night Bus to Chiapas

August, 2012.  We continued our journey through southern Mexico, seeking out fine artisan crafts for Chiripa.

From the City of Oaxaca, we took the regular overnight bus to San Cristóbol de Las Casas, in the green highlands of Chiapas. Chiapas is located in the far south of Mexico, next to Guatemala. It is the ancestral homeland of the Mayan people. Our overnight bus trip from Oaxaca to San Cristóbol took more than 11 hours. The route climbed over rugged mountains, descended into hot lowlands in the Isthmus of Tehuántepec, and then climbed again into misty Chiapas. We didn’t get much sleep during the ride, but in Chiapas we met some wonderful people and found some great crafts for Chiripa!

Chiapas Woman with her Folk Art, 

Traditional Blouse and Heavy

Black Woolen Skirt

We started our journey at nightfall, in a pouring rain, and soon left the City of Oaxaca behind us. The bus wound its way up the steep mountain road in complete darkness. Rock walls, brush, guard rails and black empty space swept to and fro across the headlights as the driver negotiated endless switchbacks – now shifting into low gear, now pumping the brakes.  

Occasionally, a heavily loaded truck emerged from the darkness above and roared past us on the narrow road. Other times, we passed sluggish trucks that were grinding up the mountain ahead of us. The windshield wipers kept up a quiet rhythm, and the bus driver played low salsa music to keep himself awake. 

Morning in San Cristóbol, Chiapas

We dozed fitfully in the dark bus, trying in vain to find restful sleeping positions. In the seats ahead and behind, fellow passengers snored (and maybe we did too – at least in our intermittent moments of sleep). As the bus pushed on through the hot Isthmus of Tehuántepec, we passed humble outdoor cafes (comedors) where clusters of people sat eating and conversing in the cool midnight hours. The dimly lighted scenes came and went, as if in a dream. Then our heads dropped and our eyes closed again.

Lunch on the Street, San Cristóbol

Dawn was breaking when we pulled into San Cristóbol. The mountain air was cool and fresh as we stepped down from the bus. Our backs were stiff and our knees were cramped, but a good cup of hot black Chiapas coffee would soon put us in shape for the craft hunt.        - JM

Woman with Braids, San Cristóbol

Patzcuaro and Santa Clara del Cobre

A post from the log that JM kept on the August 09 buying trip to Mexico for Chiripa. -kl

We were up again at dawn – this time for a 5-hour bus ride from San Miguel to Patzcuaro in the cool wooded highlands of Michoacán. We love many places in Mexico, but Patzcuaro is a special favorite.

We always stay at Los Escudos, a comfortable and economical hotel on the beautiful Plaza Quiroga – one of the oldest and finest public spaces in the Americas. We also like to eat breakfast at the nearby Mansión Iturbe Hotel (another venerable hotel located in a former colonial mansion). It offers lots of hot coffee, wonderful fresh fruit, local specialties like “corundas,” and an accompanying assortment of pastries including old-fashioned “rosettes” like your aunt or grandmother used to make.


Today, we stopped at our hotel just long enough to check in. Then we walked to the intersection near the edge of the downtown, where we caught the bus for the copper village of Santa Clara del Cobre. Six pesos (less than 50 cents at today’s exchange rate) will take you the 15 miles or so to Santa Clara.

The annual Copper Fair is in full swing in Santa Clara. The plaza in front of the church is festooned with bright paper banners (“papel picado” like you see in Chiripa). A hundred colorfully-dressed dancers (some armed with little bows and arrows) ward off a scary array of costumed evil spirits -- all to the oompah sound of a brass band.

At the local Copper Museum, there is a stunning display of hand-hammered copper. These are works of the highest art – easily qualified for display in the world’s best museums. But they are all produced right here in Santa Clara, by artisans who devote months of labor to each piece. The artisans are competing against their friends and neighbors, and the rivalry is fierce. A first-place award is a great honor.

Most of the displayed works were far out of our price range, but we bought a number of other fine pieces from the Castro Hernandez family, which captured 2 of 5 prestigious first-place awards at this year’s show. You will soon be able to find these elegant pieces at Chiripa, at very reasonable prices.


We returned to Santa Clara the next morning. But today the Copper Fair was interrupted by rain. Not just the usual gentle mist – but a fearful deluge. At this altitude (Santa Clara sits at over 7,000 feet), the lightening and thunder make your hair stand on end. The rain hammered down, and torrents of water poured down the cobbled streets like mountain rivers. A woman swept at the tide rising over the curb, trying to keep it out of her shop.


Fortunately, the curbs are high, and many sidewalks are sheltered by deep overhanging roofs. For the most part, the people just took the deluge in stride.


To all appearances, Mexico is the same beautiful place as ever. But there are some storms raging, and some dark currents flowing beneath the surface. The state of Michoacán faces serious economic difficulties, and young men have emigrated in droves. Some of those who remain have been drawn into gangs and drug violence. We felt completely safe, and saw no evidence of the violence portrayed in the news media. But it is on the minds of many people here.

Over coffee, one business owner confided to us that she is careful about what she says at parties, because “you never know for sure who is involved in what.” Neither she nor her family have ever received any threats, but she hears rumors of extortion and “protection money” schemes. Even legitimate business success can cause resentment in hard-pressed communities. And in today’s climate, businesses are forced to lay off workers who have no safety net. Job losses are making everything worse.


Back in Patzcuaro, another deluge hit in the late afternoon. Waterfalls leaped from the overhanging roofs, slid down big banana leaves in interior courtyards, and splashed on the stone pavement. But melancholy Patzcuaro, with its 400-year-old adobe walls and red tile roofs, has endured many storms. It just hunkers down and waits. -JM August 12 and 13, 2009

Arrazola

A post from the log that JM kept on the August 09 buying trip to Mexico for Chiripa. -kl

"Today we were on another old bus as it lurched out of Oaxaca’s noisy Abastos Market, headed for the village of Arrazola. Gears ground as the bus pounded its way over endless potholes and speed control bumps (“topes”), and stopped frequently to gain and lose passengers. The day already promised heat, and the bus was dark with dust and exhaust fumes. The short trip seemed endless, but at last we reached the village. On the distant heights above the town, we could see pyramids forming part of the spectacular pre-Columbian ruins of Monte Alban.

"Arrazola, like San Martín, is known for its painted wood carvings. But our initial impressions were not favorable. As we worked our way up the steep cobbled streets, ducking into family workshops, we found mainly mediocre work.


"But at last we stumbled into the workshop of Sergio Santiago. This was something different!



"The delightful figures seemed to come alive, and we had fun picking out a good selection for our Chiripa customers. If the figures survive the trip to Wisconsin (Ojalá!), you will soon see them at the shop. -JM Aug 8,2009

Ocotlan, San Martin Tilcajete, And More

A post from the log that JM kept on the August 09 buying trip to Mexico for Chiripa. -kl

"This morning we jumped off the bus and plunged into the busy Friday market in the village of Ocotlán. The market is teeming with country folk buying and selling aromatic peppers, fruits and vegetables, fresh cheese, live turkeys with feet tied together, hardware, clothing and other goods. You can still see lots of older women in traditional pleated skirts, embroidered blouses, aprons, headdresses and rebozos, and men in handmade straw sombreros. But when their generation is gone, you will probably see only machine-made baseball caps, T-shirts and jeans from China and Indonesia.


"On our way out of Ocotlán, we bought clay figurines at the cluttered multi-family households of the famous Aguilar sisters. Then we hopped on the bus, and headed down the road to the villages of Santo Tomás Jalietza (weaving on backstrap looms) and San Martín Tilcajete. We nearly lost Kathy when the bus started before she was fully on board, but she managed to stay upright and hang on. One passenger carried a handsome live chicken, in an open plastic bag, from the market in Ocotlán. The bus dropped us along the highway, so we hiked into town.


"San Martín is famous for colorfully-painted carved wooden figures called alebrijes, and in the village plaza many of the artisans had their works on display. We picked out a good selection, then walked down the rocky dirt street to our primary destination at the far end of the village – the home of Jacobo and Maria Angeles. These world class artisans produce exquisitely carved and painted alebrijes that raise the craft to the level of high art. You can see several fine examples of their work at Chiripa.


"We ended the day at the village of San Bartolo Coyotepec, home of the famous Oaxacan black pottery. Examples of the pottery are available at Chiripa." -JM Aug 7,2009

Mitla, Rugs, and Trees

A post from the log that JM kept on the August 09 buying trip to Mexico for Chiripa. -kl

"We caught the familiar brown-and-yellow bus as it left the second-class bus depot in Oaxaca’s gritty Abastos Market (“abastos” means “provisions,” and thousands of people of limited means buy and sell daily necessities at this big market). We rode to the end of the line, and got off at the village of Mitla. The village is an important textile center, and is also the site of important pre-Columbian ruins.

KZ contemplates the plethora of patterns at Mitla.

The pattern we often see in rugs sold at Chiripa.

"On our return ride, we got off at Teotitlán del Valle, the most important of Oaxaca’s rug-weaving villages. There, we greeted old friends and picked out a lovely selection of hand-woven rugs, purses, pillow covers and table runners for Chiripa (guaranteed to warm and brighten your environment).

The Santiago Family in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico.

Another pattern at Mitla similar to the design in the rug above.

"Our last stop was the village of Tule, to see what may be the world’s largest tree. The famous 'Tule Tree' is about 2,000 years old, and has a trunk as big as a house! The tree is still healthy, and green with new growth. But it is surrounded by a clutter of souvenir shops and food stands, and expanding development threatens its water supply." -JM Aug 6,2009

On to Oaxaca

A post from the log that JM kept on the August 09 buying trip to Mexico for Chiripa. -kl

"At dawn, we caught a taxi to the Puebla bus terminal and boarded for the 4-hour trip to Oaxaca in southern Mexico. It is a beautiful ride, through wild mountain lands and cactus forests. But we were happy when the bus pulled in to the new first-class terminal in Oaxaca.

"On our first afternoon in Oaxaca, we spent a little time in the bustling market southeast of the zócalo. Our friend Kathy boldly accepted an offer to try a sample of chapulines (fried grasshoppers), which are widely sold by street vendors here. She decided, however, that the sample was plenty (something about an oily taste, and legs sticking in her throat). Good protein, though.

KZ tastes grasshoppers in the Oaxaca market.

"On our first night in Oaxaca, we had dinner with our young friends Eric and Elsa. Eric is Zapotec, the eldest son of traditional weavers in the indigenous village of Teotitlán del Valle. If he marries in Teotitlán, Eric will receive a share of village land and will assume the rights and considerable responsibilities of village membership.

"But like many Mexicans, Eric is torn between 2 worlds. He learned Spanish and Zapotec at home (each village speaks a different dialect), but is fluent in English and adept with electronic media. He has traveled widely in the U.S. (including Madison, where he presented a weaving demonstration at Chiripa). At a young age, he is already Director of Education at the magnificent new Textile Museum in Oaxaca (if you are ever in Oaxaca, you must check out the museum on Independencia, just a few blocks east of the zócalo).

Eric in the center at Chiripa with his father Federico on the left and Elsa on the right.

"Eric worries that Oaxaca’s rich weaving tradition is dying out. The craft is still practiced on wooden and backstrap looms in villages throughout the region. But even here, cheap industrial textiles are quickly replacing hand-woven products for home use. Young people are not learning many of the traditional skills, and the older generation will eventually be gone. Eric works long hours to document and share the treasures that still exist, and to help struggling artisans find viable markets. Chiripa is trying to help." -JM, Aug 5, 2009

Day 17 and 18 in Guadalajara and Tlaquepaque

Monday and Tuesday, August 17 - 18: The Chiripa 2009 Summer Buying Trip to Mexico

The agenda for these days duplicates some of the visits made on other trips. I'll lead you to those posts.

On Monday Beth and JM visited the D'Casa Stoneware workshop. See the Aug 18, 2008 post for more information about Enrique Castro Compos and his family. Their products continue to be popular at Chiripa.

The next stop was the glass workshop in Tlaquepaque. See the March 12, 2008 post.

Perhaps we'll get more information about how the day went. Both of those workshops require much time and decision-making.

Tuesday is the first day of Enart, the trade show of handcrafted Mexican gifts. See the April 16, 2009 post. Beth will make stops at Citlali for jewelry and a couple other "regular" stops. Perhaps there will be a Chiripa (a happy accident) and she'll discover a new vendor who's workshop we'll visit on another trip.

This is the last shopping day of the trip. The travelers head for home on Wednesday flying out of Guadalajara at 8 a.m. and arriving in Chicago at 12:10 p.m. A bus to Madison should put them here by late afternoon.

It's been a full trip. Details and new contacts will be added in future posts. However, there will be a break in posting as I share information with Beth and then take a few days off from working the shop.

Day 10: Back to Santa Clara del Cobre

Thursday, August 13: The Chiripa 2009 Summer Buying Trip to Mexico

Today's plan is to hop on a bus back out to Santa Clara del Cobre to meet with Lulu and Alfredo and to take in more of the copper fair. I'm confident that the day started with breakfast at I Turbe, a nice hotel with a restaurant serving a great breakfast and the best coffee we can find in Patzcuaro.

Starters: fruit plate, coffee, and little powder sugar cookies in the little basket.

This refreshing start is followed by a large plate of traditional Michoacan food . . . or pancakes.

Then it's a hike to the intersection where buses to Santa Clara pass frequently. The ride up the mountain (maybe "mountain" is exaggerated, but the elevation increases significantly) passes the daily life of Patzcuaro.

A flowering vine jumps out of it's humble surroundings.

Last February's trip to Santa Clara included a breakfast with Lulu Paz and her husband, Alfredo. Alfredo operates the furniture business that makes sinks and wood pieces with beautiful copper panels. Lulu operates a traditional copper storefront with a great copper-making demonstration area (not pictured here). The shop is called Casa Felicitas at Pino Suarez #88.

Lulu and Alfredo with February's travelers.

All over the city you can hear the "ping-ping" of hammer on copper and the whoosh of a bellows fire. The travelers are sure to have a full day of decision making. I'm hoping for some copper fair photos to share at a later date.

A "Free" Trip to Mexico

We laugh when people wink and say we get to travel for free. It's true, Chiripa buying trips to Mexico are a business expense. In order to help you, the reader, understand what happens on these trips I'm going to follow the itinerary of my partner Beth who is traveling with JM and KZ right now.

The goal of these trips is to find great Mexican crafts that we can import and share with our customers, both in our brick and mortar shop and online. The beauty of the transactions is in the relationships we build with the artisans. In the next few days I will follow their trip and explain where they are and who they might be visiting on any given day. Real communication from them, as it relates to artisan crafts, will be shared. They aren't traveling with a computer, so, contact will be sporadic, at best.

Today is Tuesday, Aug. 4. I'm writing from Madison, Wisconsin.

I got up at 1:35 a.m. to be able to pick up Beth and crew at her house at 2 a.m. so that they could meet the 2:20 a.m. VanGalder bus at the UW Memorial union. This would put them at O'Hare around 6 a.m. for their flight to Mexico City at 7:45 a.m. They would arrive in Mexico around 11:45 a.m. and catch an airport bus to Puebla. (I think that's about a two hour ride.)

They will stay in downtown Puebla (I'm not sure which hotel) and hit the Artisan Market where they will visit with Miguel at Casa de las Artesanias.


Miguel Parades, his wife Lilia Cruz Ruiz, and their son Daniel have a workshop that makes skeleton figures and nichos with little skeleton scenes. These are very popular at Chiripa. We have requests for larger figures. We're also hoping that Miguel has some Chirstmas ornaments in the works. Whatever Chiripa purchases will probably be neatly boxed and will be carried on to Oaxaca where it will be consolidated with the Oaxacan purchases. (More on that later.)

B, JM, and KZ will have a nice dinner and turn in early, I'm sure. It's been a long travel day! And it's only day 1.