For those of you checking on on this blog I just want to let you know that things are going well. We´ve covered lots of ground and found new product and connected with old friends. It´s been incredibly hard to find a computer. When I´m "free" I´m on a bus or sleeping.
We are now in Patzcuaro, a favorite place in the state of Michoacan. Our last stop was Cuetzalan in the state of Puebla. We spent 12.5 hours on 4 buses getting from one to the other.
I´ll post details and photos from the trip when I get back to Chiripa.
Kathryn
Friday, February 27, 2009
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Next Trip
New Year's Day 2009 at Chiripa, Madison, Wisconsin.This trip will focus on central Mexico with a quick exploratory trip to the state of Nayarit where the Huichol people make their incredible beaded figures and yarn paintings. We'll also visit Tlaquepaque, Jalisco and San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.
Beyond that will depend on time and circumstances. We know we will end in Patzcuaro, Michoacan and fly out of Morelia. I will try to post periodically to this blog. Last time I was not able to upload photos, but maybe I'll have better luck this time.
I'm anxious to travel. I don't know if it's the long hard Midwest winter or just my need to explore some new places, but I'm more than ready. I'm also looking forward to seeing friends and business associates who we've met along the way. And picking out product is always fun. What recession?
Kathryn
Our stone iguana planter is getting tired of being buried in snow!Thursday, February 5, 2009
The Greeting Card Dilemma
In an effort to provide a complete shopping experience I decided from the beginning to include greeting cards at Chiripa. I made an assumption that I could find bilingual cards. AND, I wanted something that would tie in with the "artisan crafts" that we feature.
I found cards produced in Mexico with historic Mexican images--blank inside.
cards from Queretaro, Mexico with hand painted silk panels--lovely, but blank inside;
and even some US cards with Mexican themes--also, blank inside. I began hounding sales reps for greeting card distributors at gift shows. Nothing, until last month when I received a call. Leanin' Tree had paid attention to my plea (and a few others I suspect). A new line of Spanish language cards had been in production for two years. They were proud to announce the launch. How could I not order the package complete with spinner?
The cards have nice messages in Spanish with the English translation on the back. Here's a sample:
Deseandote un dia tan bello y perfecto, que parezca haber sido hecho especialmente para ti. Feliz Cumpleanos
(Wishing you a day so perfectly beautiful, you feel as though it has been created especially for you. Happy Birthday.)
I think these cards will be a great way to support Spanish language classes and learners. I'm also hoping the Spanish-speaking community will like them.
But they still lack the "artisan craft" angle that I want. Maybe we'll have to create our own cards with images of the beautiful crafts we carry at Chiripa. We'll see. . .
In the near future I'll be off to Mexico for new adventures. kl
I found cards produced in Mexico with historic Mexican images--blank inside.
cards from Queretaro, Mexico with hand painted silk panels--lovely, but blank inside;
and even some US cards with Mexican themes--also, blank inside. I began hounding sales reps for greeting card distributors at gift shows. Nothing, until last month when I received a call. Leanin' Tree had paid attention to my plea (and a few others I suspect). A new line of Spanish language cards had been in production for two years. They were proud to announce the launch. How could I not order the package complete with spinner?
The cards have nice messages in Spanish with the English translation on the back. Here's a sample:
Deseandote un dia tan bello y perfecto, que parezca haber sido hecho especialmente para ti. Feliz Cumpleanos
(Wishing you a day so perfectly beautiful, you feel as though it has been created especially for you. Happy Birthday.)
I think these cards will be a great way to support Spanish language classes and learners. I'm also hoping the Spanish-speaking community will like them.
But they still lack the "artisan craft" angle that I want. Maybe we'll have to create our own cards with images of the beautiful crafts we carry at Chiripa. We'll see. . .
In the near future I'll be off to Mexico for new adventures. kl
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Dinner/Last Day/Watch Your Step/Night on the Bus
[Continuing and final journal entries written by Chiripa partners on the August 2008 buying trip.]
August 25: Dinner with Friends
This evening we had dinner in Oaxaca with our good friends, the Chavez y Santiago family (and friend Elsa). The family carries on a long hand-weaving tradition in Teotitlán del Valle, the renowned weaving village. The oldest son, Eric, recently took a position with the outstanding new Textile Museum in Oaxaca. The museum has both a Mexican and a worldwide focus, and houses an astonishing collection of the best natural textile craft from throughout the world. If you are ever in Oaxaca, you should not miss it.
Federico, Eric, and Elsa at Chiripa.
Eric, his father Federico and friend Elsa visited us in Madison last year, and gave a presentation at Chiripa about hand-woven rugs and natural dye techniques. At the museum, Eric is working with others to save and promote traditional textile materials and methods.
After dinner, we went back to the hotel to finish labeling and packing the small items we had collected. This is an exhausting task at the end of a long day. A friend will pick up the packed boxes in the morning, consolidate them with later deliveries that we have ordered in the Oaxaca area, and eventually send the consolidated shipment to our exporter in Guadalajara. The exporter will add the Oaxaca shipment to our shipments from other areas; check the packing, labeling and paperwork; and put the whole works on a truck for the U.S. We hope to receive the complete shipment, with a minimum of damage, in October. We always enjoy rediscovering our treasures when we unpack them at the shop.
August 26: Last Day in Oaxaca
On our last day in Oaxaca, we decided to travel (via the Abastos Market) to the village of Atzompa, which specializes in lovely clay figures. There was a better selection than last year, and we bought as many as we thought we could carry on the bus and airplane. Earlier, we had also placed an order for hand-made clay Christmas ornaments, made by the well-known artisans Luis Blanco and his wife María who live in Atzompa.
When we returned to Oaxaca, it was hot and the sun was bright. People walked on the shady side of the street. Some of the men wore sombreros (sombra = shade), and some of the women carried parasols (para sol = for the sun). In the afternoon, we escaped the heat by sitting in the shady courtyard of a pleasant little café, sipping a cerveza and trying to organize our paperwork prior to our long, all-night bus ride to Mexico City.
August 26: Watch Your Step
You must be careful when walking in Mexico – I mean, careful about where you put your feet. The sidewalks are generally constructed of rough stone or cobbles, and often a stone is missing. Cavernous holes may go unrepaired for years, even centuries.
For locals, walking a sidewalk is a little like walking a mountain path – you take it as you find it. Then too, the locals are familiar with the holes, and avoid them without even looking. But you should not be tempted to do as they do. You should keep your eyes on the ground, carefully pre-meditating each and every step.
Of course, this strategy may make you more vulnerable to overhead (or nearly overhead) hazards. In many places, the sidewalks are lined with street vendor stalls that have overhead metal awnings. These awnings are high enough to accommodate a 5-ft. local resident, but they may not accommodate you. From nearly every trip, I return with a minor head wound sustained while I was keeping my eyes on the sidewalk.
August 26-27: All Night on the Bus
We climbed on the bus at 8:30 PM for our all-night trip to the Mexico City airport. This was a 1st-class bus, and there was a big show of security. We had to pass through metal detectors and leave our box of clay figurines in the luggage compartment under the bus (where we feared that they would be smashed to small shards).
At 11:00 PM, we passed the little comedor in the wild mountain area between Oaxaca and Puebla. The night was pitch black, but in the little comedor the blue fluorescent lights were still on, and people were still eating.
We got off the bus in Puebla at 1:00 AM, and caught a taxi to another bus terminal. The taxi driver took one of those disconcerting shortcuts down deserted back streets, but we arrived just fine. At the second terminal, we waited for the 2:30 AM bus to the Mexico City airport. The small terminal was lively, and people seemed wide awake.
We arrived at the Mexico City airport at 4:30 AM. By 6:15 AM, we were on a plane headed home.
[Note: The shipment arrived October 31 with almost no damage. Another trip is in the planning. We'll keep you posted!]
August 25: Dinner with Friends
This evening we had dinner in Oaxaca with our good friends, the Chavez y Santiago family (and friend Elsa). The family carries on a long hand-weaving tradition in Teotitlán del Valle, the renowned weaving village. The oldest son, Eric, recently took a position with the outstanding new Textile Museum in Oaxaca. The museum has both a Mexican and a worldwide focus, and houses an astonishing collection of the best natural textile craft from throughout the world. If you are ever in Oaxaca, you should not miss it.
Federico, Eric, and Elsa at Chiripa.Eric, his father Federico and friend Elsa visited us in Madison last year, and gave a presentation at Chiripa about hand-woven rugs and natural dye techniques. At the museum, Eric is working with others to save and promote traditional textile materials and methods.
After dinner, we went back to the hotel to finish labeling and packing the small items we had collected. This is an exhausting task at the end of a long day. A friend will pick up the packed boxes in the morning, consolidate them with later deliveries that we have ordered in the Oaxaca area, and eventually send the consolidated shipment to our exporter in Guadalajara. The exporter will add the Oaxaca shipment to our shipments from other areas; check the packing, labeling and paperwork; and put the whole works on a truck for the U.S. We hope to receive the complete shipment, with a minimum of damage, in October. We always enjoy rediscovering our treasures when we unpack them at the shop.
August 26: Last Day in Oaxaca
On our last day in Oaxaca, we decided to travel (via the Abastos Market) to the village of Atzompa, which specializes in lovely clay figures. There was a better selection than last year, and we bought as many as we thought we could carry on the bus and airplane. Earlier, we had also placed an order for hand-made clay Christmas ornaments, made by the well-known artisans Luis Blanco and his wife María who live in Atzompa.
When we returned to Oaxaca, it was hot and the sun was bright. People walked on the shady side of the street. Some of the men wore sombreros (sombra = shade), and some of the women carried parasols (para sol = for the sun). In the afternoon, we escaped the heat by sitting in the shady courtyard of a pleasant little café, sipping a cerveza and trying to organize our paperwork prior to our long, all-night bus ride to Mexico City.
August 26: Watch Your Step
You must be careful when walking in Mexico – I mean, careful about where you put your feet. The sidewalks are generally constructed of rough stone or cobbles, and often a stone is missing. Cavernous holes may go unrepaired for years, even centuries.
For locals, walking a sidewalk is a little like walking a mountain path – you take it as you find it. Then too, the locals are familiar with the holes, and avoid them without even looking. But you should not be tempted to do as they do. You should keep your eyes on the ground, carefully pre-meditating each and every step.
Of course, this strategy may make you more vulnerable to overhead (or nearly overhead) hazards. In many places, the sidewalks are lined with street vendor stalls that have overhead metal awnings. These awnings are high enough to accommodate a 5-ft. local resident, but they may not accommodate you. From nearly every trip, I return with a minor head wound sustained while I was keeping my eyes on the sidewalk.
August 26-27: All Night on the Bus
We climbed on the bus at 8:30 PM for our all-night trip to the Mexico City airport. This was a 1st-class bus, and there was a big show of security. We had to pass through metal detectors and leave our box of clay figurines in the luggage compartment under the bus (where we feared that they would be smashed to small shards).
At 11:00 PM, we passed the little comedor in the wild mountain area between Oaxaca and Puebla. The night was pitch black, but in the little comedor the blue fluorescent lights were still on, and people were still eating.
We got off the bus in Puebla at 1:00 AM, and caught a taxi to another bus terminal. The taxi driver took one of those disconcerting shortcuts down deserted back streets, but we arrived just fine. At the second terminal, we waited for the 2:30 AM bus to the Mexico City airport. The small terminal was lively, and people seemed wide awake.
We arrived at the Mexico City airport at 4:30 AM. By 6:15 AM, we were on a plane headed home.
[Note: The shipment arrived October 31 with almost no damage. Another trip is in the planning. We'll keep you posted!]
Friday, January 2, 2009
Tinsmiths and Weavers
[Continuing journal written by Chiripa partners on the August 2008 buying trip.]
August 25
Before we headed out of town, we searched out a small tin workshop in downtown Oaxaca, to see tin ornaments being made. The ornaments were not pressed by a machine, as you might expect, but were individually cut and then hammered into shape by a tinsmith using a variety of different small hammers.
The tinsmith’s wife then painted the individual ornaments by hand, with painstaking care. We bought a number of the lovely ornaments for our Chiripa customers.
When we are in Oaxaca, we always make the bus trip to the village to Teotitlán del Valle. This time we also went to the nearby village of Santa Ana del Valle (just up the road from the market town of Tlacolula). Teotitlán and Santa Ana are known for making fine, handwoven wool rugs. Teotitlán is somewhat better known, and a bit more prosperous.
People in these and other area villages still speak Zapotec in their homes. Our friend Eric Chavez, a weaver’s son who grew up in Teotitlán, told us that each village has its own separate Zapotec dialect. These dialects are quite different from each other, so that it may be easier for people from different villages to communicate in Spanish, rather than in Zapotec.
The route to these villages leads down the Tlacolula Valley, past the ancient Tule tree (it was alive in the time of Christ, and is now one of the biggest living things in the world). Further down the road, past the weaving villages, you can visit the impressive pre-Hispanic ruins at Mitla (although we did not have time to visit Mitla on this trip).
In Teotitlán, we bought beautiful natural-dyed rugs and runners from our friends Bulmaro Perez and Federico Chavez, both recognized masters of the weaving craft. On hand-operated looms, these families still produce rich woolen rugs in the old way. Each rug starts with wool gathered from sheep in the surrounding highlands. The wool is carded and spun, colored with natural dyes such as cochineal, indigo and witch hazel, and then skillfully hand-woven into rich and elegant patterns. The families weave their ancient Zapotec tradition and individual craftsmanship into every rug.
Bulmaro demonstrates the natural dyes used in his beautiful rugs.
In Teotitlán, we also bought some warm, hand-knit wool caps from the Women’s Cooperative. We didn’t buy anything in Santa Ana this time, but did pay a visit to the parents of a friend’s acquaintance. Even though the parents did not know us, and were bereaved by a recent death in the family, they were kind enough to invite us for a meal. We had to decline, for lack of time, but will not soon forget their courtesy and hospitality.
August 25
Before we headed out of town, we searched out a small tin workshop in downtown Oaxaca, to see tin ornaments being made. The ornaments were not pressed by a machine, as you might expect, but were individually cut and then hammered into shape by a tinsmith using a variety of different small hammers.
The tinsmith’s wife then painted the individual ornaments by hand, with painstaking care. We bought a number of the lovely ornaments for our Chiripa customers.
When we are in Oaxaca, we always make the bus trip to the village to Teotitlán del Valle. This time we also went to the nearby village of Santa Ana del Valle (just up the road from the market town of Tlacolula). Teotitlán and Santa Ana are known for making fine, handwoven wool rugs. Teotitlán is somewhat better known, and a bit more prosperous.
People in these and other area villages still speak Zapotec in their homes. Our friend Eric Chavez, a weaver’s son who grew up in Teotitlán, told us that each village has its own separate Zapotec dialect. These dialects are quite different from each other, so that it may be easier for people from different villages to communicate in Spanish, rather than in Zapotec.
The route to these villages leads down the Tlacolula Valley, past the ancient Tule tree (it was alive in the time of Christ, and is now one of the biggest living things in the world). Further down the road, past the weaving villages, you can visit the impressive pre-Hispanic ruins at Mitla (although we did not have time to visit Mitla on this trip).
In Teotitlán, we bought beautiful natural-dyed rugs and runners from our friends Bulmaro Perez and Federico Chavez, both recognized masters of the weaving craft. On hand-operated looms, these families still produce rich woolen rugs in the old way. Each rug starts with wool gathered from sheep in the surrounding highlands. The wool is carded and spun, colored with natural dyes such as cochineal, indigo and witch hazel, and then skillfully hand-woven into rich and elegant patterns. The families weave their ancient Zapotec tradition and individual craftsmanship into every rug.
Bulmaro demonstrates the natural dyes used in his beautiful rugs.In Teotitlán, we also bought some warm, hand-knit wool caps from the Women’s Cooperative. We didn’t buy anything in Santa Ana this time, but did pay a visit to the parents of a friend’s acquaintance. Even though the parents did not know us, and were bereaved by a recent death in the family, they were kind enough to invite us for a meal. We had to decline, for lack of time, but will not soon forget their courtesy and hospitality.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Sunday Slowdown
[Continuing journal written by Chiripa partners on the most recent buying trip.]
August 24
In Mexico, many people work at least 6 days a week. But on Sunday, things usually slow down a little. People get up later, and some go to church. The great church bells ring, as they do every day -- often with a dry, flat resonance that conjures up the Spanish Middle Ages.
There is a big noon meal, and the family sits around talking or watching soccer. In the villages, men and women may stand outside drinking beer. But many shops are still open.
We had breakfast at our favorite outdoor terrace restaurant, which has a wonderful view of the mountains and the magnificent Santo Domingo church, originally built between 1570 and 1608 as part of a Dominican monastery.
We spent our afternoon at the Women’s Cooperative in Oaxaca, where we found a great selection of tin ornaments, decorative paper and other items. Then we trekked down to the artisan market, in the city’s market district, to hunt out more small items. In the evening, in our hotel room, we started to label, organize and pack the bewildering array of little treasures.
August 24
In Mexico, many people work at least 6 days a week. But on Sunday, things usually slow down a little. People get up later, and some go to church. The great church bells ring, as they do every day -- often with a dry, flat resonance that conjures up the Spanish Middle Ages.
There is a big noon meal, and the family sits around talking or watching soccer. In the villages, men and women may stand outside drinking beer. But many shops are still open.
We had breakfast at our favorite outdoor terrace restaurant, which has a wonderful view of the mountains and the magnificent Santo Domingo church, originally built between 1570 and 1608 as part of a Dominican monastery.
We spent our afternoon at the Women’s Cooperative in Oaxaca, where we found a great selection of tin ornaments, decorative paper and other items. Then we trekked down to the artisan market, in the city’s market district, to hunt out more small items. In the evening, in our hotel room, we started to label, organize and pack the bewildering array of little treasures.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
Alebrijes and More
Today it is snowing in Madison, Wisconsin. The continuing journal of the last buying trip to Mexico makes me homesick for the warmth and color and fine friends of Mexico. Sigh. . .
[Continuing journal written by Chiripa partners on a recent buying trip.]
August 23
Jacobo Angeles and his wife María produce the finest alebrijes in Mexico. They are also wonderful people, and it was a pleasure to visit them again this year. We found them in their family workshop in the village of San Martín Tilcahete, Oaxaca, Mexico.
Many artisans in the Oaxaca area produce alebrijes -- carved and painted wooden animals that can take many forms. But Jacobo and Maria have raised this craft to the level of fine art. Their finely carved pieces are typically produced from a single piece of wood, and have an amazingly graceful and living form. The figures are painted with intricate, precise and complex designs (using beautiful naturally-derived colors and traditional indigenous patterns) that you must see to believe. The completed figures have a pensive, elegant, almost human quality. We bought a number of fine pieces from Jacobo and María, including a big, exquisitely painted Jaguar head.
Maria with the jaguar head that she so expertly painted.
In a place of honor at Chiripa.
The road to San Martín Tilcahete goes through other craft villages including San Bartolo Coyotopec, Santo Tomás Jalieza, and Ocotlán. In San Bartolo we visited the workshop of the late Rosa Real Mateo (Doña Rosa discovered the process for producing the famous Oaxacan black pottery), and picked out a number of black pottery pieces for Chiripa.
Click on the photo to see a piece of black pottery for sale on the Chiripa website.
In Santo Tomás we chose some fine and colorful cotton table linens woven on traditional backstrap looms by women in the town.
In Ocotlán, we visited the family workshop (commune, really) of the famous Josephina Aguilar and her extended family. Chickens and turkeys strutted through the compound, and a host of grandchildren ran about and posed for photos as we selected some of the small clay figurines for which Josephina is famous.
Between villages, we got on and off several local buses. In San Martín, we also got a ride in the little golf-cart type vehicle that serves as the village taxi. Finally, as evening approached, we climbed on the bus and headed back to Oaxaca. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped in at the Majordomo Chocolate store in the bustling market district southwest of the zócalo, where they make fresh chocolate to order, and had our traditional hot chocolate.
[Continuing journal written by Chiripa partners on a recent buying trip.]
August 23
Jacobo Angeles and his wife María produce the finest alebrijes in Mexico. They are also wonderful people, and it was a pleasure to visit them again this year. We found them in their family workshop in the village of San Martín Tilcahete, Oaxaca, Mexico.
Many artisans in the Oaxaca area produce alebrijes -- carved and painted wooden animals that can take many forms. But Jacobo and Maria have raised this craft to the level of fine art. Their finely carved pieces are typically produced from a single piece of wood, and have an amazingly graceful and living form. The figures are painted with intricate, precise and complex designs (using beautiful naturally-derived colors and traditional indigenous patterns) that you must see to believe. The completed figures have a pensive, elegant, almost human quality. We bought a number of fine pieces from Jacobo and María, including a big, exquisitely painted Jaguar head.
Maria with the jaguar head that she so expertly painted.
In a place of honor at Chiripa.The road to San Martín Tilcahete goes through other craft villages including San Bartolo Coyotopec, Santo Tomás Jalieza, and Ocotlán. In San Bartolo we visited the workshop of the late Rosa Real Mateo (Doña Rosa discovered the process for producing the famous Oaxacan black pottery), and picked out a number of black pottery pieces for Chiripa.
Click on the photo to see a piece of black pottery for sale on the Chiripa website.In Santo Tomás we chose some fine and colorful cotton table linens woven on traditional backstrap looms by women in the town.
In Ocotlán, we visited the family workshop (commune, really) of the famous Josephina Aguilar and her extended family. Chickens and turkeys strutted through the compound, and a host of grandchildren ran about and posed for photos as we selected some of the small clay figurines for which Josephina is famous.
Between villages, we got on and off several local buses. In San Martín, we also got a ride in the little golf-cart type vehicle that serves as the village taxi. Finally, as evening approached, we climbed on the bus and headed back to Oaxaca. On our way back to the hotel, we stopped in at the Majordomo Chocolate store in the bustling market district southwest of the zócalo, where they make fresh chocolate to order, and had our traditional hot chocolate.
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