I'm going to skip ahead to the next phase of the February trip when we stopped in Puebla. We intended to explore the ruins at Xochitecatl Cacaxtla, but they were closed for renovation. Of course we didn't learn this until we had made the bus trip out to the ruins. We wandered around, took another bus to Tlaxcala where we had lunch on the zocalo and then took a slow bus trip back to Puebla. Not all days can be Chiripa days.
A "must-do" shopping experience in Puebla is the artisan market. It's close to the center of town and open late. One of our favorite stops is at Casa de las Artesanias, the shop of Miguel Paredes (Interior del Mercado, El Parian). He carries many fun things from all over Mexico, but his specialty is Day of the Dead figures and nichos (little boxes with scenes inside). Next time we will visit his workshop where they make the figures. In the photo he is holding a bass player. Miguel is open to suggestions for new figures and scenes. Send us your ideas and we'll pass them on.
Of course, Puebla is famous for its talavera pottery. We like the decorative plates that have a raised glaze. Most of the talavera that we carry in Chiripa is made in Dolores Hidalgo in Guanajuato (like this covered plate). Some will say it is not "true" talavera, but it is very affordable and popular with our customers.
For those of you waiting for news on the truck, it was delayed in Texas and is just leaving there today. We're hoping to see it on Wednesday, April 30.
No, we're not in China. Tzintzuntzan (seen-soon-sahn) is my favorite sounding town name in Mexico. It means place of the butterfly in Purepecha (poo-RAY-pecha), the language of the indiginous people who live in this area of Michoacan.
Dirceau (our guide from Barro Sin Plomo/Echery Pottery) introduced us to Ophelia Gamez on our last trip. The two are great friends.
We found Ophelia working in her studio and as I photographed, Dirceau talked with her about her work and family life. She never put down the brush until we were ready to check out what was for sale in the showroom.
In this next photo, Ophelia works on the decorative edge of a bowl. You can see (and buy) a similar bowl on our website.
Tzintzuntzan is an artisan center and has a lively market with baskets, cornhusk flowers, embroidery, pottery, and wood carvings. You'll also find ancient ruins right along the highway. As we head out of town we stop close to the ruins to visit a display of carved volcanic rock.
Isidoro Lopez Saldivar and his family line both sides of the highway with an amazing array of figures and architectural detail. Although power tools are used for much of the carving, the fine details still require work by hand. Here Isidoro puts the finishing touches on a figure.
On our last trip I was able to capture his family on film. It also gives you a sense of the scope of the business.
This is definitely worth a stop on your trip. We've been know to carry back a fish or two. But, the piece we show on our website came by truck. It no longer graces the front of the shop, but you'll find other pieces for sale inside.
People often ask for our favorite city in Mexico. Usually that answer is Patzcuaro. It's a mid-sized, inland city in the state of Michoacan at a high enough elevation to enjoy cool nights and warm days. It's a perfect base to explore the many artisan crafts of the state. But, more than that, it has a flavor of Mexico that has not been overly impacted by tourists from other countries. Some say that it is a favorite vacation spot of Mexicans.
Where else can you sit outside for breakfast and watch the local police march to the zocalo to raise the flag? (Note the colorful table linens that are made in this city and sold in our shop.)
The zocalo is the heart of this town and there are events, entertainment, and exercise daily. We like to fall in with the locals who walk or run around the perimeter in the morning.
Below is a photo of the El Viejos (the old ones) who dance on wooden shoes to lively traditional music.
One place we like to shop right in Patzcuaro is Once Patios (11 Patios) just a couple blocks from the central zocalo. I think it was a convent at one time, but is now a labyrinth of shops that represent the various crafts of the area. We'll look more closely at one in another post.
The daily food marked and the Friday general market are worth the trip. We especially like sniffing the sacks of dried peppers.
Another meeting place in Patzcuaro is the area around the Basilica. You'll find vendors of religious icons, clothing, toys, carvings, and tequilla. In the mornings there are food vendors and sometimes musicians to serenade. We enjoyed this group.
After a day out in the countryside, it's refreshing to come back to the hotel* where vendors sell ice cream and ices. These elaborate concessions are set up and taken down daily. The adventuresome try flavors of unknown origin. I stick to the familiar, like limon!
The evening walk always includes a detour to another area where people come to eat the impressive dinners cooked over these outdoor grills. Watching the swift movements and the generous helpings makes us wish we were brave enough for street food.
This is just a sampling of the delights of Patzcuaro. I'm sure every traveler has their own special places and events. You might want to consider this spot the next time you want to get away from the crowds.
*Hotel Los Escudos is our preferred abode in Patzcuaro. It's right on the zocalo and is reasonably priced. Another hotel on the zocalo that has good breakfasts (with fruit plates with papaya) is I Turbe. It gets good reviews, but we're on a more modest mission when traveling!
