Brilliant and Disappearing Arts

February, 2013. We are traveling in the highlands of Michoacán, in south-central Mexico, looking for fine artisan crafts for Chiripa.

Victor Aguila has worked with the indigenous potters in the village of Capula for decades. Years ago, he went door-to-door trying to convince the artisans to switch to lead-free glazes. His pioneering work was originally sponsored by Barro Sin Plomo (Clay Without Lead), an organization that has since taken its lead-free crusade worldwide.

Victor Greets an Old Friend in Capula

As he wanders through the village craft market, Victor takes satisfaction in many successes. Many of the local artisans have switched to lead-free methods, which are more expensive but safer for artisans and their families (as well as consumers). But the overall market for traditional village ceramics has declined. “When I started, there were over 400 ceramics artisans in Capula,” says Victor. “Now there are fewer than 100.”  In today’s economy, skilled village artisans have a hard time making a living from their work.

Victor takes us to the homes of several families who still produce beautiful traditional ceramic ware, and who use only lead-free methods. Chiripa has worked with some of the families, such as the Juan Rosas family, for years. Others, like the Rogelio Martinez family, we are meeting for the first time. All of the artisans are happy to see us, because they need money for tortillas and for their children’s schooling.  We buy as much as we think we can possibly sell, and maybe a little more.

Martinez Family, Lead-Free Ceramics

The village of Capula is also known for producing exquisite ceramic catrinas (elaborate skeleton figures that dress and act as if they were alive). These catrinas are not exactly a traditional art form, although they certainly have roots in the indigenous Mexican culture. In the late 19^th and early 20^th Centuries, the Mexican illustrator Jose Posada used catrinas in his widely published works to lampoon the pretensions of the rich upper classes, and to make other irreverent comments on Mexican life. The skeletons spoke to the unsettling (yet humorous) truth below the surface of things. They soon took on a life of their own (so to speak), and have now become a wildly popular folk art form.

Carlos and Big Catrina

You can see many kinds of catrinas throughout Mexico. They are cleverly rendered in many media, from pen-and-ink to oil paint to papier mache.  But you will see nothing more exquisite than the finely-sculpted ceramic catrinas produced by the best artists of Capula. They come in many sizes and styles, and strike a variety of absurd, elegant, proud, merry, tragic and haunting poses. We bought some good examples from Candelaria Hernandez and Carlos de la Cruz, and asked the artists to pack them really well.  Most survived the long and bumpy trip to Wisconsin, and you can see them at Chiripa. - JM

Around Lake Patzcuaro-Santa Fe de la Laguna

Photos and thoughts from the February 2012 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

We don't often get to the far north side of Lake Patzcuaro. But, in the small village of Santa Fe de la Laguna one can find some of the most beautiful and contemporary-looking lead-free pottery. It is the work of Nicholas Fabian and his wife Maria del Rosario. On this trip we arrived to find no one home. And then, a Chiripa (happy accident): Maria came walking down the street and welcomed us into their home. 

 Maria wearing a traditional Purépecha rebozo 

in front of a wall of newly made pottery.

After we had selected the new product for Chiripa I asked Maria to step into their courtyard for another photo. To me, she projects pride and honor. She and Nicolas were part of the first group of potters in that area that recognized the need to switch to lead-free production techniques. She is a proud of their indigenous heritage and confident in their art. She is the one that makes the forms and Nicholas is the one who etches the designs. They are a partnership and both names are etched on the bottom of all pieces.

We were sad to miss Nicolas on this trip, but we learned that he now has access to email when he goes into town. Next time, we'll plan ahead.

A true team: Maria del Rosario and Nicholas Fabian photographed in 2008.

-kl

Around Lake Patzcuaro-Manuel Morales

Thoughts and photos from the February 2012 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

Some of our most amazing and memorable experiences traveling in Mexico come from visiting workshops in small villages. The artists are in their natural element.

Master potter Manuel Morales lives and works in Tzintzuntzan, Michoacan, Mexico. Using pre-columbian themes and geometrical designs, he has managed to combine images from his indigenous Purepecha heritage and influences from the greater world of art history. His workshop is the building that was the first hospital in that area. Manuel's work has won numerous national prizes and is coveted in the U.S. and Europe. Chiripa feels fortunate to have several new pieces on the way.

Our current (4/12) remaining piece can be found on the Chiripa website.

We first met Manuel when visiting his mother, also a potter. Ofelia Gamez died about a year ago; a great loss to the community and Chiripa.

We are anxiously awaiting the arrival of the new shipment from Mexico. Sign up for the Chiripa mailing list (lower right corner of homepage) if you would like email notifications. -kl

A Riot of Table Linens

From the log of the August, 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

Pátzcuaro, in Michoacán, is famous for its colorful, hand-woven table linens. The linens are produced in family workshops, on hand-operated wooden looms. Marco Adame helped us select some nice patterns in his little retail shop, then took us to the workshop where other patterns were still on the looms. His little car bounced and scraped on the steep, rocky road to the workshop. But the workshop and the view were well worth the bumpy ride.  

At the workshop, we had the privilege of choosing cloth in a variety of brilliant designs that were still in the process of being woven. 

The next day, the weaving was completed, and the cloth was cut and sewn to our specifications. We picked up our completed order after sunset. You can find these lively and functional table linens, including table cloths, placemats and napkins, at Chiripa. Add fun to your table!

A Quest for Ceramics

From the Aug 2011 log on the Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

About 25 miles from Pátzcuaro, in Michoacán, is the indigenous Purépecha village of Capula -- known for its fine ceramic work. We hired a taxi to take us to the village. The taxi dropped us in the town center, and we proceeded on foot. We hoped to find Fernando Arroyo, a recognized master artisan, who makes finely decorated ceramics. Arroyo and his wife Belem were among the first Capula artisans to make ceramics with lead-free glazes.    

After a half-hour of trial-and-error, we knocked on the door of a little adobe house that we hoped was that of the Arroyo family. The door opened, and Fernando and Belem welcomed us into the family workshop.  Our eyes adjusted as we stepped down into the dark little room, which has a low ceiling, a dirt floor, and no electric lights. But just beyond the workshop there is a sunny little courtyard. The family bicycle is parked against the courtyard wall, where Arroyo has hung examples of completed works.

A special kiln, needed for the production of lead-free ceramics, stands in one corner of the workshop (the kiln serves as a storage cabinet when not in use). The workshop benches are crowded with ceramic pieces in various states of completion. You would be amazed at the stunning, elegant pieces created in these humble surroundings. We chose as many as we could carry, and Fernando packed them with newspaper in a cardboard box. 

Fernando’s son and a neighbor boy sat in the doorway, looking on. 

When the transaction was completed, the entire family gathered for a photo.

We carried the box, heavy with ceramic treasure, back to the town center (calling on other artisans along the way). There is only one taxi in Capula, and it was standing empty next to the public market. We finally tracked down the driver, a gentle and amiable man with a dry sense of humor, who agreed to drive us to Pátzcuaro. En route, he talked about his passion for the beautiful Michoacán environment, and about his efforts to reduce the plague of litter on town streets and country roads. We gave him a good tip, and he used it to buy ice cream (a Pátzcuaro specialty) for his wife. “She will love me for this,” he beamed.  -JKM

The Barter Market

From the August 2011 log on the Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

In Pátzcuaro, on certain days, the indigenous Purépecha people from surrounding villages hold a barter market on a rundown outdoor basketball court near the old church. This market is not for tourists, or even the other people of Pátzcuaro, but for the villagers themselves. The vendors trade produce of various kinds -- reckoning, say, the comparative value of peppers and dried beans. Vendors also offer an eclectic array of used clothing and household items. 

Fresh and dried fish, from the nearby lake, are also on offer. Fish have long been an important part of the Purépecha life and diet, and are a common design element in local handcrafts – including hand-made jewelry, textiles and ceramics. You can see some beautiful examples at Chiripa.

Blue Fish Platter by Fernando Arroyo, Capula, Michoacan.

Peeking into Tzintzuntzan

From the log kept by JM on the August 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

August 24, 2010. In Tzintzuntzan (Michoacan, Mexico) there is a handcraft market that offers a mountain of goods, including ceramics, straw baskets, cornhusk flowers, wood carvings and much more. You can see local people binging their wares for sale. 

Patient sellers often pass hours or days between sales, so Chiripa is glad to bring them needed business. The recent wet weather, with its occasional heavy deluges, has made life even ore difficult for open-air market vendors.

Behind the market is a centuries-old church and an old walled park with ancient olive trees. We cross the park, and pass through a doorway in the far wall near the church. Just down the street, and around the corner, we knock on the door of Ofelia Gamez, who is well known for the hand-painted lead-free ceramics she makes in her home. 

We interrupt Ofelia's work long enough to pick out some nice pieces for Chiripa. Ofelia's son, Manuel Morales, who also has a workshop in Tzintzuntzan, has gained an international reputation for his elegant ceramics. This sample is currently at Chiripa.

Dining Room with a View

From the log kept by JM on the August 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

August 21, 2010. It seemed like a fine morning to eat at the Hotel de la Basilica. The hotel, which sits on a hill in the center of Patzcuaro, is named for the basilica that sits just across the street. The basilica was constructed from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Its huge bells ring out across the city, a soulful reminder to faithful and unfaithful alike.

The hotel dining room offers splendid views over a jumble of red-tiled roofs (reminiscent of hill towns in Italy) to the lake and mountains beyond. Morning clouds hang half-way up the mountains. The dining room is small, but we have our choice of tables because tourists are scarce these days. The hot coffee is delicious on a cool morning.

 A lovely table setting features hand-made ceramic plates from the nearby village of Capula. (Chiripa has just a few of these very same plates which are made with a lead-free glaze.) The centerpiece is a colorful, handmade castle of firecrackers (not available at Chiripa), of the sort commonly put to use at fiestas here. The centerpiece also includes hand-woven straw ornaments from the nearby town of Tzintzuntzan (which we plan to visit after breakfast). Heavy, hand-blown glassware and hand-formed ceramic mugs complete the table setting.

In Patzcuaro, hand-woven table linens are also a specialty. Men weave the fabric on heavy wooden looms. Skilled seamstresses then fashion the fabric into napkins, placemats and tablecloths. At Chiripa you can find Patzcuaro table linens in a riot of bright colors. They look great with hand-made ceramic plates from Capula and hand-blown glassware from Tlaquepaque! Enjoy the colors, textures and hand-made character of Mexico in your home.

Requiem for a Silversmith

Text from JM's log on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

February 24, 2010

We are sorry to report that Jesus Garcia Zavala--silversmith extraordinaire--has passed away. The sign over his form shop near the Patzcuaro Basillica has been painted over with whitewash.

Jesus created the beautiful silver fish necklaces and other items seen at Chiripa, and his work has been displayed in museums around the world.

When we asked Jesus why there were 12 fish on all of his necklaces
he replied that there were 12 disciples, of course.

Jesus carving one of his cast silver fish.

Fortunately, Jesus shared his silverworking knowledge with other family members, and we were able to acquire a few pieces that his cousin has crafted in the same tradition.

Earrings by Jesus Garcia Zaval available at Chiripa and online.

Farewell to a Patzcuaro icon.

Copper, Furniture, Guns and Gorditas

Text from JM's log on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

February 23, 2010

Lourdes (“Lulu”) and Alfredo are a good team. Alfredo designs and builds the gorgeous wood and copper furniture you see at Chiripa. Lulu is a perpetual motion machine – the lively and engaging face of the family copper business. As we discussed hand-hammered copper and furniture, a neighbor lady came by offering homemade gorditas. We thought they were delicious, and a passing local patrol of heavily-armed federales apparently agreed.

The military presence is an unfortunate sign of the times in some parts of Mexico. Later, after visiting several other copper workshops, we had a more elaborate meal of pasta and shrimp prepared by Renaissance-man Alfredo. Muy sabroso!

Casa Felicitas, Lulu's domain
in Santa Clara de Cobre, Michoacan, Mexico

Tzintzuntzan and Back

Text from JM's log on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico. Photo captions by Kathryn.

February 22, 2010

We traveled to the lakeside village of Tzintzuntzan, which in past centuries was the capital of the powerful Tarascan empire. There we shopped for cantera stone carving.

An array of carved volcanic rock.

Carver Diego Lopez Zaldivar with his family

A veiw of the ancient ruins from Diego's window.

And we visited the overflowing artisan market. We bought armloads of things, including dozens of tall cornhusk gladiolas on bamboo sticks.

We stuffed everything into a small taxi, and then tried to stuff ourselves into the same tiny space. It was a struggle, but nothing like that which ensued when we tried to get out again at our destination. The taxi driver smiled in amusement as we thrashed around in a hopeless tangle of seat belts, bags, flowers and sticks. He kept his good humor, even when a rogue stick nearly cost him an eye. But at last we broke free, and no one was hurt. All part of the Chiripa business model!

A staple at Chiripa is the cornhusk flowers that we can only find in the Tzintzuntzan market.

These colorful additions to our shop inspire people to say: "Chiripa makes me happy!"

This photo is the family who's stall at the market sells the many flowers we purchase

(daisies, callas, tulips, and the gladiolas mentioned in the copy above).

Left to right: Angelica Morales, her husband Juan Alberto Aparicio, and their daughter Jessica Morales.

We were happy to find all of them at the shop on this trip.

Paula Guzman Perez makes these delightful skeletons.

Her display was set up outside the local cemetery that is famous for it's Day of the Dead observance.

It was just a Chiripa that she was on the path that I walked on my way to buy stone carvings.

Patzcuaro Calls Again

Text from JM's log on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

February 21, 2010 — Ah, Patzcuaro! The chill mornings at 7,000 feet, the evergreen-forested hills, the lake, the field stone fences painstakingly constructed by generations of campesinos, the 400-year old stone buildings, the rustic wood cabins with steep tile roofs, the church bells, the wood smoke, the ice cream vendors and consumers,



the market,


the beautiful Purepecha faces,


the easy pace and, of course, the crafts.

In Patzcuaro and surrounding villages there are hand-woven table linens in a riot of colors, pine needle baskets, wood carvings, furniture, cheerful flowers fashioned from corn husks, hand-hammered copper, cantera stone carving, leather, traditional ceramics, and the best guitars in Mexico. We have returned many times, and it touches us still.

The beautiful old Plaza Quiroga is being refurbished this year to the design originally mandated in the 1500’s by King Felipe II of Spain.


The project provides lots of jobs in these hard times, and the result will no doubt be beautiful. But it may take a while to acquire the patina of the old square we loved.


The construction deprives us of or our accustomed morning paseo, and young lovers must find other places to embrace. We wonder whether the birth rate will be affected.

We end the day after dark, in a little shop that sells hearts, crosses and other mysterious items made with the little tin “milagros” that are so popular at Chiripa.

When we tell the young shopkeeper that we are from Chiripa, her eyes sparkle and she breaks into a beautiful smile: “Oh yes, I remember you!”