Mischievous Angels and More

From the log JM kept on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

February 26, 2010. No visit to San Miguel de Allende would be complete without a visit to the Artisan Market. We bought ceramics and jewelry from the Leyva family,

Adela Flores with her brightly painted suns.

and picked out a large selection of painted wood carvings (mischievous flying angels and a couple of devils) offered by a family from the state of Guerrerro.

We also visited the home of our friend Ricardo Banda, to pick out some finely-crafted tin and tile mirrors for your home and luminaries for your patio.

Ricardo keeps careful track of our order.

But, that was just the beginning! We also picked out some hand-made decorative tiles, and made a trip up the highway to the historically-important town of Delores Hidalgo, where the Mexican Independence Movement began. They were reconstructing the highway, which follows the 200-year-old route of the original independence march. It was slow going, but we made it to Delores in time to choose a good selection of hand-painted ceramic ware from the Liceagui family. We watched the Liceagui painters at work, and were astonished by their steady hands and skill.

Even our photos didn't interrupt the artist's concentration.

Upon leaving the Liceagui workshop, we had to run for several blocks to catch up with the bus leaving for San Miguel. Our frantic chase amused the amiable group of bystanders, who laughed and cheered us on. Because of the slow traffic, we finally overtook the bus--only to find that it was the wrong one! But well-wishers waived down the correct bus ahead of us and, puffing and sweating, we finally pulled ourselves aboard. There were no heart attacks.

Cold and Stars in San Miguel

Text from the blog the JM kept on the Feb/Mar 2010 buying trip for Chiripa.

We were late arriving in San Miguel de Allende, a beautiful colonial town that has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


We contacted Felix, an experienced artisan who produces the magical tin stars, and many of the luminaries and mirrors, that grace Chiripa. Within a half hour, Felix and his wife arrived at our hotel to take our order. It was an unusually cold night in the courtyard, and Felix and his wife borrowed our jacket and fleece to keep warm. (They came dressed in T-shirts.)

The Truck Arrives

I'll interrupt the log from the last trip to report that the truck arrived at Chiripa on Monday, May 10. But, unfortunately, not all of the shipment was in the truck. Some is back at the warehouse in Guadalajara. We're still sorting out what happened and hope to know soon when the rest of the shipment will be delivered. In the meantime we're keeping busy unpacking.

Requiem for a Silversmith

Text from JM's log on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

February 24, 2010

We are sorry to report that Jesus Garcia Zavala--silversmith extraordinaire--has passed away. The sign over his form shop near the Patzcuaro Basillica has been painted over with whitewash.

Jesus created the beautiful silver fish necklaces and other items seen at Chiripa, and his work has been displayed in museums around the world.

When we asked Jesus why there were 12 fish on all of his necklaces
he replied that there were 12 disciples, of course.

Jesus carving one of his cast silver fish.

Fortunately, Jesus shared his silverworking knowledge with other family members, and we were able to acquire a few pieces that his cousin has crafted in the same tradition.

Earrings by Jesus Garcia Zaval available at Chiripa and online.

Farewell to a Patzcuaro icon.

Copper, Furniture, Guns and Gorditas

Text from JM's log on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

February 23, 2010

Lourdes (“Lulu”) and Alfredo are a good team. Alfredo designs and builds the gorgeous wood and copper furniture you see at Chiripa. Lulu is a perpetual motion machine – the lively and engaging face of the family copper business. As we discussed hand-hammered copper and furniture, a neighbor lady came by offering homemade gorditas. We thought they were delicious, and a passing local patrol of heavily-armed federales apparently agreed.

The military presence is an unfortunate sign of the times in some parts of Mexico. Later, after visiting several other copper workshops, we had a more elaborate meal of pasta and shrimp prepared by Renaissance-man Alfredo. Muy sabroso!

Casa Felicitas, Lulu's domain
in Santa Clara de Cobre, Michoacan, Mexico

Tzintzuntzan and Back

Text from JM's log on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico. Photo captions by Kathryn.

February 22, 2010

We traveled to the lakeside village of Tzintzuntzan, which in past centuries was the capital of the powerful Tarascan empire. There we shopped for cantera stone carving.

An array of carved volcanic rock.

Carver Diego Lopez Zaldivar with his family

A veiw of the ancient ruins from Diego's window.

And we visited the overflowing artisan market. We bought armloads of things, including dozens of tall cornhusk gladiolas on bamboo sticks.

We stuffed everything into a small taxi, and then tried to stuff ourselves into the same tiny space. It was a struggle, but nothing like that which ensued when we tried to get out again at our destination. The taxi driver smiled in amusement as we thrashed around in a hopeless tangle of seat belts, bags, flowers and sticks. He kept his good humor, even when a rogue stick nearly cost him an eye. But at last we broke free, and no one was hurt. All part of the Chiripa business model!

A staple at Chiripa is the cornhusk flowers that we can only find in the Tzintzuntzan market.

These colorful additions to our shop inspire people to say: "Chiripa makes me happy!"

This photo is the family who's stall at the market sells the many flowers we purchase

(daisies, callas, tulips, and the gladiolas mentioned in the copy above).

Left to right: Angelica Morales, her husband Juan Alberto Aparicio, and their daughter Jessica Morales.

We were happy to find all of them at the shop on this trip.

Paula Guzman Perez makes these delightful skeletons.

Her display was set up outside the local cemetery that is famous for it's Day of the Dead observance.

It was just a Chiripa that she was on the path that I walked on my way to buy stone carvings.

Patzcuaro Calls Again

Text from JM's log on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

February 21, 2010 — Ah, Patzcuaro! The chill mornings at 7,000 feet, the evergreen-forested hills, the lake, the field stone fences painstakingly constructed by generations of campesinos, the 400-year old stone buildings, the rustic wood cabins with steep tile roofs, the church bells, the wood smoke, the ice cream vendors and consumers,



the market,


the beautiful Purepecha faces,


the easy pace and, of course, the crafts.

In Patzcuaro and surrounding villages there are hand-woven table linens in a riot of colors, pine needle baskets, wood carvings, furniture, cheerful flowers fashioned from corn husks, hand-hammered copper, cantera stone carving, leather, traditional ceramics, and the best guitars in Mexico. We have returned many times, and it touches us still.

The beautiful old Plaza Quiroga is being refurbished this year to the design originally mandated in the 1500’s by King Felipe II of Spain.


The project provides lots of jobs in these hard times, and the result will no doubt be beautiful. But it may take a while to acquire the patina of the old square we loved.


The construction deprives us of or our accustomed morning paseo, and young lovers must find other places to embrace. We wonder whether the birth rate will be affected.

We end the day after dark, in a little shop that sells hearts, crosses and other mysterious items made with the little tin “milagros” that are so popular at Chiripa.

When we tell the young shopkeeper that we are from Chiripa, her eyes sparkle and she breaks into a beautiful smile: “Oh yes, I remember you!”