From the log kept on the August 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.
Pátzcuaro, in the mountains of Michoacán, is cooler and wetter than Guadalajara. Salvador Farfán García and his son Gustavo are the last remaining practitioners of the traditional Purépecha silver craft in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán. Salvador’s world renowned cousin Jesús Garcia Zavala, who also studied under the great maestro Casares, died a couple of years ago.
We decided to locate Salvador, but it was not easy. With luck, we managed to get Gustavo’s address from a jewelry retailer in Pátzcuaro.
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| The walk past Once Patios. |
The path led us past the Casa de las Once Patios, where a blind accordionist plays every day in hopes of getting a few coins from passersby.
The mournful chords seemed as timeless and melancholy as the ancient adobe walls. We climbed the steep cobbled stairway to the hill above, from which there is a magnificent view of the city, mountains and lake.
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| Pátzcuaro at the top of the stairs. |
We wandered through the quiet little residential district that sits up on the hill. At last, with some friendly help from local residents, we found Gustavo’s home. Gustavo graciously showed us his little workshop, where he makes fine silver jewelry on a tree stump using hammers, files, and other simple hand tools.
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| Beth watches Gustavo at work on the stump. |
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| Gustavo carefully forms a sphere from a flat disc. |
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| Gustavo files a silver fish. |
Then, he led us back down to the center of town to meet his father (from whom he learned the silver craft).
Our pilgrimage took us to Pátzcuaro’s public market. Following Gustavo’s lead, we plunged into a warren of covered walkways – so dark and crowded that they seemed like underground tunnels. Finally, in a most unlikely location opposite a meat vendor’s stall, we found Salvador’s tiny little shop.
We picked out a fine selection of pieces, including a magnificent fish necklace of a kind that Purépecha brides-to-be traditionally received as a toke of their betrothal. We also chose hand-wrought silver earrings of a kind found nowhere else in the world. See them for yourself at Chiripa! -JKM
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Salvador and Gustavo Farfan with some of their creations. Earrings available from Chiripa. |
