A Oaxaca Wedding - Part 3

The Reception in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca

Even if one enjoys the adventure of public transportation, getting to Teotitlan del Valle, the main wool weaving village in Oaxaca, is a somewhat daunting task. This time was no exception. We walked from our hotel to the spot adjacent to the Abastos market where our memory told us we could catch a brown and yellow bus that would take us to the center of Teotitlan. After about 45 minutes of unsuccessful searching through the loud dusty swirl of bus, taxi, combi, motorcycle, bicycle, and pedestrian chaos for a glimpse of that bus, we decided to ask for assistance from an arm waving, whistle shrieking man directing combi (taxi) traffic. He pointed us back to the street where we had been. “No taxis to Teotitlan on this a market day in Tlacolula.” More anxious waiting,  but still no Teotitlan bus. 

Having lost hope of catching a bus in time for the celebration and debating what our options might be, we spied a bus marked for Mitla, beyond Teotitlan, but, if memory served, on the same highway. Of course, in the time it took us to recognize the name and process the location, the bus flew by. Dodging people, poles, potholes, and traffic, we sprinted down the street in hopes of catching up. Finally the bus slowed to pick up some passengers and we were able to jump aboard. The driver, on a tight schedule, had little time to deal with our wheezing and feeble Spanish. We hoped that his hand signals indicated that he would drop us at the crossroads a fair but walkable distance outside of Teotitlan. Whew! Closer, at least?

To our relief, as we approached the crossroads, the bus slowed and we and a few other passengers were able to leap off. Squinting though brilliant sun and a swirl of dust as the bus roared off, we spotted a taxi waiting on the other side of the highway. Chiripa! The locals, always quicker and more alert, set off at a torrid pace across the new, elevated walkway that increases the chance of pedestrian survival. Scuttling after them as best we could, we clearly lost the race to the taxi, but our fellow travelers kindly held the taxi for us. With them we rode in sardine luxury to street where had visited the Chavez family on previous visits. Chiripa!

The new Chavez house was to be the site of the reception. We were told to just keep walking past their former home/workshop. We crossed a dry creek and headed into the countryside. The looming table-filled tent was our first clue that we had found it. But in typical U.S. style, we were quite early, which gave us time to observe the party preparations. The day was warm and bright, yet pleasant in the shade, and the atmosphere subdued. The new house, not fully finished was open and airy. As the previous night’s party in Oaxaca had continued through the entire night, everyone was operating on little or no sleep. Eric and Elsa were nowhere to be seen. Federico and Lola, Eric’s parents were busy directing various tasks. Janet and Omar, Eric’s siblings were working on signs to direct guests to the party. Several men of the family were sitting around a table talking. They motioned us to join them. Most of the conversation was in Zapotec with a bit of Spanish tossed in probably for our benefit. We understood nothing, but nodded and smiled anyway. We were offered the the refreshment of the day, Coronitas ( 7 oz cervezas). It was all very pleasant and low key, but as it was man talk, I drifted off to the kitchen to see what was happening there.

The food prep area was the most fascinating. The women of the family were hard at work. Eggs were being cracked and mixed in a large washtub. In the end who knows how many dozens of eggs there were. 

A caldron of chicken stock, nearly 6 feet in diameter was simmering over a fire and being stirred by two women using huge bamboo poles. A tub of chicken pieces was ready to add. When fully assembled this soup would be the first course of the celebration dinner, to be served by the many women preparing the food.

I pitched in with the dish washing. How many would attend? 200(!!!!!) for a sit-down dinner. This would be a grand celebration! The plates and bowls were all being washed in tubs behind the house. They are part of the community cache of supplies that are rented for fiestas. My poor Spanish didn’t get me far with the other helpers. But, they didn’t refuse my help although they were quite concerned that I was not wearing an apron. They all wore aprons over their traditional pleated skirts.

At some point Eric and Elsa arrived with their dog. They had some lunch and talked with family members, then left again apparently they needed a nap.

After the dishes were washed, I checked in on the soup and the tortilla-making. Two wood fired comals were in use and each giant tortilla was hand made. What a lot of tortillas, many for each expected guest! 

Then I found another task: rolling the silverware in a napkin. This put me in the room with the Virgin of Guadalupe altar where the gifts and special guests were received. 

As we worked I heard a commotion outside. The band had assembled at the gate and was walking up the drive playing their instruments. Once in the tent they formed a line along the side. The men of the Chavez family moved down the line each one greeting every band member with a traditional handshake and a slight bow. Then the family presented the band with gifts of beer, mescal, and soda. The band took their places at one end of the tent.

Some guests began to trickle in, each greeted respectfully with the handshake and bow.  Many brought a case of Coronitas, some a bottle of mezcal. Then there was a bit of commotion as a somewhat larger group gathered at the gate. Omar told us that the Village President, members of the city council, and spouses had arrived. They solemnly walked to the house in a group. Again the men of the Chavez family greeted each of the dignitaries who then were ushered into the room with the altar. The dignitaries lined one side and the bride’s  and groom’s families on the opposite side. A formal ceremony of what appeared to be greeting and thank you for honoring the event followed. Members of the families spoke to the dignitaries and dignitaries spoke to members of the families. These were serious sounding speeches, all in Zapotec made by an individual on one side of the room to the group on the other side. As each person spoke those on the other side of the room gave short responses of agreement or respect almost like a call and response in a church. 

From my corner where I was working on the silverware, I got to look at the back of the beautiful dresses the guests wore.

Eric and Elsa returned and soon the guests began to arrive in earnest and the tables under the tent filled. Warm and respectful greetings were exchanged each time a person a new person arrived. 

We took our seats as well just in time to be served a large bowl of the chicken and egg soup accompanied by tortillas and hot sauce. We consumed the soup with great relish thinking that this was the meal. Shortly after the soup bowls were taken away, a main course of grilled chicken, corn and mixed vegetables arrived. We don’t know if it was prepared on site or brought in.  It simply appeared. As we were quite full from the delicious soup, we asked to share the main course. 

Large stacks of tortillas arrived at every table. Apparently, many other guests also were quite full after the soup course, as they skillfully wrapped leftovers in several layers of the large tortillas and packed them into the plastic bags provided by the servers.

The band played throughout the meal and then took a break and were served the wedding meal. They too were encouraged to take food home and were given plastic bags for the tortilla-wrapped chicken. Mezcal and cervezas were in good supply!

Dessert was served buffet style and it included a waffle cone with coconut sorbet and a red one that we later learned was cactus fruit. While we ate Federico and other men passed out bunches of moistened and very pleasant smelling leafy branches that would later be used in the dances.

The tables disappeared in a hurry and the band members took their places to begin the dance music. Again, the first dances were for the wedding couple and then their parents. This time the dancers carried the branches. In addition the men carried large bottles of Mezcal in one hand as they danced. This traditional dancing (a jarabe or folk dance) is quite lengthy with the band playing the same refrain over and over. The band director put the band on autopilot and managed to sneak in a good nap.

By this time we realized that the last bus to Oaxaca would be leaving soon and we reluctantly decided to take our leave knowing that the partly would last long into the night. Another couple of gringos decided to leave at the same time and we were able to find a taxi and were able to negotiate a ride to Oaxaca for all of us.

A fun day, we hope we did not commit too many cultural faux pas; an experience we will not soon forget. Thank you Eric and Elsa; Lola and Fe for making us feel welcome at such a personal time. -KL

Mountains and Rain

August, 2012.  We are traveling in southern Mexico, looking for distinctive artisan crafts for Chiripa.

It is the rainy season in Oaxaca.  In the morning, strands of misty clouds hang from the lovely shoulders of the green mountains, like elegant necklaces.  

Brilliant flowers glitter in the soft air.  

After an afternoon shower, a ray of sunlight breaks through.  It drapes the weathered old cathedral in glory, and crowns it with a rainbow.

In the village of Teotitlan del Valle, weavers listen to the rain and peek out from under dripping tile roofs.  Then they lean into their work once again, crafting elegant wool rugs on wooden pedal looms.  The rugs (tapetes) emerge in glorious patterns and colors from nature.  The variety is endless, put a popular pattern is “Mountains and Rain.” 

 At Chiripa, you can see tapetes from some of the best weavers in Mexico. -JM

Zapotec Weavers

From the log kept by JM on the Chiripa buying trip in February and March of 2010.

March 1, 2010. Today we made our regular pilgrimage to the Zapotec Village of Teotitlan del Valle--epicenter of Mexican weaving. You can buy Zapotec rugs in Oaxaca, but you really must got to Teotitlan to get to the heart of the amtter. We normally take the bus from the Abastos Market, but today we got a ride from our good friend Bulmaro Perez (one of the most famous of the current generation of Mexican weavers). On our way out of Oaxaca we stopped at one of Bulmaro's favorite restaurants for a tasty blue-collar breakfast of enchiladas stuffed with barbecued beef.

Bulmaro Perez Mendoza with some of his beautiful tapestries.

When we got to Bulmaro's workshop, we were overwhelmed (as always) by the fine texture, elegant design, and rich natural colors of his rugs. (Bulmaro uses cochineal, indigo, marigold and other natural dyes.) Before long we had dozens of rugs scattered on the floor, and were lost in indecision. Bulmaro, the consummate and congenial salesman, padded around on his bare feet, smiled and pulled out more rugs for our consideration. At last we are down to a few select beauties (more than we had badgeted for, but far fewer than we wanted to take home). Some were woven by Bulmaro's father, an undisputed grand maestro. We are sure that you will love them (when they get to Madison).

Which rugs to choose . . .

In Teotitlan, we also visited other old friends including the Chavez and Santiago families. From them, we acquired a fine selection of finely woven wool rugs, table runners, purses and place mats.

Federico Chavez ("el veterano"), shown here with his wife Dolores (and dyed wool ready for weaving), has had rugs displayed in museums throughout the world. The Chavez family dyes its own wool with natural dyes, and in the family workshop there is a loom for each of the five family members.


Federico's son Eric (in the photo above) has fallen behind on his weaving, because he works long hours as education director of the new (and already world-renowned) Oaxaca Textile Museum. (You should visit the museum at 917 Hldalgo, just east of the zocalo in Oaxaca.)

An exhibition of Huichol garments was the featured show when we visited the museum in March.

Daughter Janet has opened a sweet retail shop in Oaxaca, where you can buy one of the family's fine rugs and talk to Janet in English, French, Spanish or Zapotec. The shop, called Galeria Fe y Lola is tucked into a courtyard on Cinco de Mayo, just down from Santo Domingo and next door to the little Gecko Coffee shop. Son Omar is still in school, but helps in the shop and is already an accomplished weaver.

Dolores, Omar, Federico and Janet at the entrance to the shop.

Mitla, Rugs, and Trees

A post from the log that JM kept on the August 09 buying trip to Mexico for Chiripa. -kl

"We caught the familiar brown-and-yellow bus as it left the second-class bus depot in Oaxaca’s gritty Abastos Market (“abastos” means “provisions,” and thousands of people of limited means buy and sell daily necessities at this big market). We rode to the end of the line, and got off at the village of Mitla. The village is an important textile center, and is also the site of important pre-Columbian ruins.

KZ contemplates the plethora of patterns at Mitla.

The pattern we often see in rugs sold at Chiripa.

"On our return ride, we got off at Teotitlán del Valle, the most important of Oaxaca’s rug-weaving villages. There, we greeted old friends and picked out a lovely selection of hand-woven rugs, purses, pillow covers and table runners for Chiripa (guaranteed to warm and brighten your environment).

The Santiago Family in Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca, Mexico.

Another pattern at Mitla similar to the design in the rug above.

"Our last stop was the village of Tule, to see what may be the world’s largest tree. The famous 'Tule Tree' is about 2,000 years old, and has a trunk as big as a house! The tree is still healthy, and green with new growth. But it is surrounded by a clutter of souvenir shops and food stands, and expanding development threatens its water supply." -JM Aug 6,2009

Day 3: Teotitlan del Valle

Thursday, August6: The Chiripa 2009 Summer Buying Trip to Mexico

The plan for this day is to visit master weaver Bulmaro Perez Mendoza of Father and Sons Rugs in Teotitlan del Valle, a short bus ride from Oaxaca city. But, first there will be a brisk walk to the local bus station near the Abastos Market. Then one waits along a busy street and flags down the bus heading out of the city in the direction of Teotitlan. Imagine horns honking, people hawking, and general chaos as life goes on.

Bulmaro provides a valuable service to Chiripa. He coordinates the shipping to Guadalajara for all of our Oaxaca purchases. I don't know if this is a common practice for this savy businessman, or, if he is doing us a huge favor. We consider it a Chiripa (a happy accident) that we found this kind man.


When the travellers get back to Las Golondrinas in Oaxaca they may find swans on their bed.