Brilliant and Disappearing Arts

February, 2013. We are traveling in the highlands of Michoacán, in south-central Mexico, looking for fine artisan crafts for Chiripa.

Victor Aguila has worked with the indigenous potters in the village of Capula for decades. Years ago, he went door-to-door trying to convince the artisans to switch to lead-free glazes. His pioneering work was originally sponsored by Barro Sin Plomo (Clay Without Lead), an organization that has since taken its lead-free crusade worldwide.

Victor Greets an Old Friend in Capula

As he wanders through the village craft market, Victor takes satisfaction in many successes. Many of the local artisans have switched to lead-free methods, which are more expensive but safer for artisans and their families (as well as consumers). But the overall market for traditional village ceramics has declined. “When I started, there were over 400 ceramics artisans in Capula,” says Victor. “Now there are fewer than 100.”  In today’s economy, skilled village artisans have a hard time making a living from their work.

Victor takes us to the homes of several families who still produce beautiful traditional ceramic ware, and who use only lead-free methods. Chiripa has worked with some of the families, such as the Juan Rosas family, for years. Others, like the Rogelio Martinez family, we are meeting for the first time. All of the artisans are happy to see us, because they need money for tortillas and for their children’s schooling.  We buy as much as we think we can possibly sell, and maybe a little more.

Martinez Family, Lead-Free Ceramics

The village of Capula is also known for producing exquisite ceramic catrinas (elaborate skeleton figures that dress and act as if they were alive). These catrinas are not exactly a traditional art form, although they certainly have roots in the indigenous Mexican culture. In the late 19^th and early 20^th Centuries, the Mexican illustrator Jose Posada used catrinas in his widely published works to lampoon the pretensions of the rich upper classes, and to make other irreverent comments on Mexican life. The skeletons spoke to the unsettling (yet humorous) truth below the surface of things. They soon took on a life of their own (so to speak), and have now become a wildly popular folk art form.

Carlos and Big Catrina

You can see many kinds of catrinas throughout Mexico. They are cleverly rendered in many media, from pen-and-ink to oil paint to papier mache.  But you will see nothing more exquisite than the finely-sculpted ceramic catrinas produced by the best artists of Capula. They come in many sizes and styles, and strike a variety of absurd, elegant, proud, merry, tragic and haunting poses. We bought some good examples from Candelaria Hernandez and Carlos de la Cruz, and asked the artists to pack them really well.  Most survived the long and bumpy trip to Wisconsin, and you can see them at Chiripa. - JM