The Paper Chase

Musings from the February, 2011 Chiripa buying trip.

These days, the city of Puebla depends heavily on the production of German cars (Volkswagens). But in the old colonial heart of the city, the buildings speak of a different age.  The imposing cathedral, started in 1550 (just 60 years after Columbus), features the tallest bell towers in Latin America.
 

Puebla is a magnificent, refined city – more Spanish in character than some cities in Mexico. It is here that the highest quality (and most expensive) Talavera ceramics are made. The exterior walls of many colonial buildings are covered with Talavera tiles that glow in the morning light.

Last night we were looking for humbler, but still beautiful, items – brightly colored paper lanterns that create a warm and festive glow wherever they are hung. In Mexico, the lanterns are traditionally used during the Christmas season (Navidad), but you can use them any time. On a warm Spring evening, they will add magic to your patio.

We weren’t having much luck with our search, until a passerby came to our rescue. She was a high school math teacher, on her way to the conservatory where her daughter was taking flute lessons. Like most teachers, she was smart, friendly, helpful and dedicated. She knew just where the lanterns could be found, and offered to take us there – even though it was far out of her way.

She set off at a brisk pace, chatting the whole time. The streets were filled with pedestrians poking into dozens of little specialty shops that offered ceramics, hardware, shoes, dresses, household goods and candy (special dulces for which Puebla is famous). Many of the shops sold paper, but not the special lanterns that were the object of our quest.  Fortunately, the friendly teacher guided us to exactly right place, a hardware store – and there we found the illumination we sought. Thank you teachers!

The Tale of Another Shipment from Mexico

We are always thrilled to receive delivery of the items we purchase on our buying trips for Chiripa. You may also know that it’s never smooth sailing. Here’s how the delivery unfolded in mid-May:

After the usual month-or-two delay from the scheduled date, we were informed the delivery would be made from a 55-foot semi truck with no lift gate (to lower boxes to the ground). The delivery time was set for Thursday morning, after rush hour on South Park Street. OK, we’ll round up the guys and make sure all hands are ready. Maybe we can negotiate the truck into the Chiripa parking lot so we can unload directly into the garage.

The driver calls at 11 am on Wednesday; he’s an hour away. Quick! Find the other partners and get them to the shop! Chase away the drivers who want to park in the spaces in front of Chiripa’s garage. Chase away the police officer who stopped to inquire about a neighborhood business.

There’s no way Albert, the driver from Laredo, can back that huge truck to the garage. Great...we’ll have to unload boxes onto the street in front of the shop. Chase away the car that just parked in front of Chiripa.

Chiripa’s boxes are packed w-a -y in the front of the container, all fifty-five feet from the door.  Get Beth and Albert into the trailer to start moving boxes down to Jim and Jim on the street. Kathryn, keep an eye on the shop while helping coax some furniture and boxes through the front door. It starts to sprinkle rain. Jim and Jim use dollies to transport the boxes from the street through the mist and into the garage, stacking them high. We all continue hoisting and carrying for about an hour.

Finally, the truck is empty. Whew! Everything – and everyone – seems unscathed after the experience. We thank Albert for his help and he heads on to his next job. Chiripa’s next job?  Unpacking all the boxes. -BAR

Amate Books, Oaxaca

Musing from the February 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

Still rather impatiently awaiting the truck from Mexico. Most future posts will relate to products once we have them, but, for now I'll reminisce a little more about the February trip.

A regular stop in Oaxaca is Amate Books. It's an English language bookstore that can entertain for long periods of time. I browse the selves and tables to see what is new and what is popular. I frantically jot down titles and authors and publishers hoping to be able to find these for Chiripa once I return home. I especially like scanning the children's books. Outside the shop is a bench. These photos were taken while resting after a long day of shopping.

The border around the door is composed entirely of dried marigolds (the flower of the Day of the Dead). To the right of the door stands a larger-than-life skeleton Catrina made of straw-wrapped wire. We have seen this style of art in the state of Michoacan and wonder if the piece is from that area. To the left of the door is a fine piece of sculpture (enlarged in the second photo). It is of the style found in the nearby village of Atzompa although we never find anything so fine.

As I look up I see a large tin chandelier with what was probably originally candle holders. It pays to rest in Mexico. Besides people watching there are always interesting details to engage the imagination.

Moonlit Night in Oaxaca

Musings from the Feb 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

We are patiently awaiting the shipment from the February buying trip. It seems so long ago. One night near the end of the trip we climbed the stairs of our hotel to the rooftop patio. There are no lights, but the moon was up (full the night before) and we were greeted with this stunning view of Santo Domingo and the lighted street leading to it.

As we gazed from the edge of the patio out at the beautiful city on a balmy February night we looked down and were greeted with snapshots of everyday life. Clothes on a line, bottled drinking water, walkways; life. 

There were no people outside in these inner courtyards. It was late. But the visuals leave a sense of mystery; a longing to return.  -kl


UPDATE: the truck has cleared customs and is on its way!

Huichol Blunder

Musings from the Feb 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

We like to stop at the downtown street market when in Tlaquepaque (Jalisco, Mexico). The Huichol people (from the state of Nyarit) set up tables to sell their intricate bead work and continue beading while tolerating the casual shoppers.

I was particularly drawn to a young woman rapidly creating the subtly shaded peyote flowers of a bracelet. She continued working while I selected a collection of earrings, bracelets, barrettes and beaded ornaments (that I'll save for holiday shoppers). When I was finished I asked her if I could take her picture. She agreed and her young son eagerly joined for this photo.

I thanked her and was about to leave when she asked for money. I was surprised, but opened my coin purse to give her a token amount for allowing me to photograph her. But, no, she didn't want money for the photo, she wanted money for the goods I thought I had purchased. Oops! I was so intrigued with capturing the beading process that I forgot to pay for the jewelry and ornaments. We all had a good laugh and I went on my way just a little embarrassed! -KL

La Chata in Guadalajara

Musings from the Feb 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

 
One of our regular restaurants when traveling to Guadalajara is the popular La Chata near the Zocalo. It's just a couple blocks from our standard hotel. And, on those trips when we arrive weary from airline travel, there's nothing better than a quick hike to a traditional Mexican restaurant where you know they will serve good food and beer.

The restaurant's kitchen is open to the street offering tempting glances at the frying chicken and fresh tortillas. The cooks are reluctant to pose, but tolerate the intruding gringos. 

Don't expect a quiet atmosphere. This place is always hopping. But the service is fast and the food good. It's usually my first taste of mole and I know I'm in Mexico. kl

The Most Beautiful House in Mexico

Musings from the Feb 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

 
For several years, we have been visiting our friend Miguel Paredes at his little shop in Puebla. Miguel makes the clever and amusing little skeleton scenes that you can find at Chiripa. 

This year, Miguel invited us to visit his workshop (“taller”) located in his home. Miguel, his wife Lilia, and their son Daniel welcomed us into what looked like an ordinary middle-class residence. 

But once inside, we realized that this house was by no means ordinary. We were stunned to see magnificent painted murals, worthy of a museum, covering the walls! Miguel had painted all of them – not for any commercial reason, but for the pure love of art.

In the living room was a huge mural portraying the Virgen of Guadalupe, surrounding by angels with musical instruments representing the major indigenous peoples of Mexico. (One of the angels was modeled after Miguel’s son Daniel as an infant).

Running the full length of the stairway was an epic mural tracing the entire history of Mexico and its people, from the dawn of time to the present day. 

Surrounding a doorway, there were beautifully painted symbols representing the months of the Aztec calendar. 

At every turn, there were fine artisan crafts from every corner of Mexico (Miguel had acquired many of them by trading with other artisans). We wandered through the house as through a museum.

Lilía offered us delicious home-made bread, fresh mangos, and other treats for lunch. As we ate, we talked about Miguel’s craft, which grew out of the Mexican “Day of the Dead” tradition. 

The conversation was enhanced by Daniel’s wonderful photos of the “Noche de los Muertos,” taken in the indigenous village of Uriche in Michoacán. (The photos were stored on his iPad.) Miguel explained that, when he was a boy, his mother made a special meal each year for dear ones who had departed this life. The front door was left open, and the friendly spirits were invited to enter and partake of the meal. Miguel’s mother spoke to them, and invited them to sit at the table, as if they were still alive. (According to traditional belief, they were still really alive as long as those remaining here still loved and remembered them.) The muertos did not physically consume the offered meal, but transformed it – so that it was even more delicious when consumed by those who remained.

After lunch, we went out behind the house to Miguel’s small but extraordinarily well organized workshop. He showed us the painstaking process by which he makes the little skeleton figures and scenes, including the firing and painting of the tiny clay figures. (As Lilia explained later, Miguel loves to create new designs and art every day – not just when he has a commercial order). Lilia helped us choose a satisfying collection, which you will be able to see soon at Chiripa.