Showing posts with label paper. Show all posts
Showing posts with label paper. Show all posts

Saturday, June 11, 2011

The Paper Chase

Musings from the February, 2011 Chiripa buying trip.

These days, the city of Puebla depends heavily on the production of German cars (Volkswagens). But in the old colonial heart of the city, the buildings speak of a different age.  The imposing cathedral, started in 1550 (just 60 years after Columbus), features the tallest bell towers in Latin America.
 
Puebla is a magnificent, refined city – more Spanish in character than some cities in Mexico. It is here that the highest quality (and most expensive) Talavera ceramics are made. The exterior walls of many colonial buildings are covered with Talavera tiles that glow in the morning light.

Last night we were looking for humbler, but still beautiful, items – brightly colored paper lanterns that create a warm and festive glow wherever they are hung. In Mexico, the lanterns are traditionally used during the Christmas season (Navidad), but you can use them any time. On a warm Spring evening, they will add magic to your patio.

We weren’t having much luck with our search, until a passerby came to our rescue. She was a high school math teacher, on her way to the conservatory where her daughter was taking flute lessons. Like most teachers, she was smart, friendly, helpful and dedicated. She knew just where the lanterns could be found, and offered to take us there – even though it was far out of her way.

She set off at a brisk pace, chatting the whole time. The streets were filled with pedestrians poking into dozens of little specialty shops that offered ceramics, hardware, shoes, dresses, household goods and candy (special dulces for which Puebla is famous). Many of the shops sold paper, but not the special lanterns that were the object of our quest.  Fortunately, the friendly teacher guided us to exactly right place, a hardware store – and there we found the illumination we sought. Thank you teachers!

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Hand-Made Paper

From the log kept by JM on the Feb/March 2010 Chiripa buying trip.

In the foothills north of Oaxaca is the town of San Augustin de Etla. There you can visit an interesting workshop that produces high quality hand-made paper. They are happy to give demonstrations, and there is also a nice shop where you can buy interesting paper items of all sorts (we did).

Paper drying in the bright Oaxacan sun and hand-made paper kites in the shop.

The natural setting is beautiful, and on the hill above the workshop there is an old mill that has been converted to an art school and display gallery. 


The unique architecture makes effective use of the water that flows down the hillside and right through the facility. The lush vegetation and hilltop views evoke the Oaxaca region as it may have looked before an exploding population, industrialization, deforestation and traffic took their toll.


If you are feeling adventurous, you can get to San Augustin for just 10 pesos per person (less than a dollar) by taking a collectivo taxi from a location next to the Abastos Market. From the zocalo in downtown Oaxaca, walk west on Trujano until you get to the market area. Cross busy Periferico at the end of Trujano, and you will see an area where the brown and white collectivos are parked. Be sure to ask for a collectivo to St. Augustin de Etla. If you take one that is just marked Etla, you will be disappointed to find yourself in a very different place.