August 16, 2008 (Evening) Night is falling in Patzcuaro. In the blue light of the little shop, within the thick adobe walls, Enrique is perched on a ladder in front of a stack of packaged, hand-woven table linens. The stack lines the wall to a height of 12 feet. There are bright greens and blues, oranges and reds, plaids and stripes – a stunning assortment of colors and patterns. We point to a deep blue tablecloth that sits 10 ft. up the wall. Enrique hands it down to us, and we add it to our growing assortment.
We first met Enrique 3 years ago, when he showed us through his family’s weaving workshop just up the hill. There, artisans wove brightly-colored table linens on heavy wooden hand looms.
Now, in the little retail shop, Enrique helps us choose a good selection of linens from the workshop. His mother and pregnant wife keep track, and add up the bill with a pencil. Enrique finds a large cardboard box, which exactly holds the linens we have chosen. He wraps it in packing tape, and reinforces the corners. I try to pick it up, but lift it only a foot or so. “Don’t worry,” says Enrique (in Spanish), “I will carry it for you.” Before we can refuse, he lifts the heavy and unwieldy box onto his shoulders and we are off.
Somehow, we must get to our hotel at the other side of the plaza. The stone cobbles are rough, and it is starting to rain. But Enrique is undaunted. We are halfway there. Enrique is going strong, but the rain is steady now. At the three-quarter mark, Enrique is starting to show the strain but still refuses assistance. We duck under the arcade to avoid the downpour, but find our way obstructed by evening crowds out for a paseo and snack. Enrique struggles on gamely.
Finally, we reach the hotel lobby and Enrique puts down his burden. When I tell Enrique that I will carry the box the rest of the way to the room, Enrique responds with a look of fierce pride: “No, I will take it.” And he does.
[A small sample of the Patzcuaro table linens are for sale on the Chiripa website.]
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