Thursday, March 31, 2011

The Most Beautiful House in Mexico

Musings from the Feb 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.
 
For several years, we have been visiting our friend Miguel Paredes at his little shop in Puebla. Miguel makes the clever and amusing little skeleton scenes that you can find at Chiripa. 


This year, Miguel invited us to visit his workshop (“taller”) located in his home. Miguel, his wife Lilia, and their son Daniel welcomed us into what looked like an ordinary middle-class residence. 


But once inside, we realized that this house was by no means ordinary. We were stunned to see magnificent painted murals, worthy of a museum, covering the walls! Miguel had painted all of them – not for any commercial reason, but for the pure love of art.


In the living room was a huge mural portraying the Virgen of Guadalupe, surrounding by angels with musical instruments representing the major indigenous peoples of Mexico. (One of the angels was modeled after Miguel’s son Daniel as an infant).



Running the full length of the stairway was an epic mural tracing the entire history of Mexico and its people, from the dawn of time to the present day. 


Surrounding a doorway, there were beautifully painted symbols representing the months of the Aztec calendar. 

At every turn, there were fine artisan crafts from every corner of Mexico (Miguel had acquired many of them by trading with other artisans). We wandered through the house as through a museum.

Lilía offered us delicious home-made bread, fresh mangos, and other treats for lunch. As we ate, we talked about Miguel’s craft, which grew out of the Mexican “Day of the Dead” tradition. 


The conversation was enhanced by Daniel’s wonderful photos of the “Noche de los Muertos,” taken in the indigenous village of Uriche in Michoacán. (The photos were stored on his iPad.) Miguel explained that, when he was a boy, his mother made a special meal each year for dear ones who had departed this life. The front door was left open, and the friendly spirits were invited to enter and partake of the meal. Miguel’s mother spoke to them, and invited them to sit at the table, as if they were still alive. (According to traditional belief, they were still really alive as long as those remaining here still loved and remembered them.) The muertos did not physically consume the offered meal, but transformed it – so that it was even more delicious when consumed by those who remained.



After lunch, we went out behind the house to Miguel’s small but extraordinarily well organized workshop. He showed us the painstaking process by which he makes the little skeleton figures and scenes, including the firing and painting of the tiny clay figures. (As Lilia explained later, Miguel loves to create new designs and art every day – not just when he has a commercial order). Lilia helped us choose a satisfying collection, which you will be able to see soon at Chiripa.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Glass in Tlaquepaque

Musings from the Feb 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

In Tlaquepaque, a suburb of Guadalajara that is famous for its artisan crafts, we also stop to visit our friend Tina Ruiz. Tina’s husband of many years died last year (see this post), leaving her to run the family’s hand-blown glass business. It has been a hard year, and Tina has had to contract for production help. But she still sells hand-blown glass produced according to her family designs. She continues to nurture the avocado trees that she and her husband planted just before he died, and hopes to sell avocados in a couple of years. She was delighted to receive a Chiripa cap to protect her from the sun! 


Chiripa carries a fine selection of beautiful hand-blown glassware, selected from Tina’s shop. Chiripa currently has several color options for the glass mask luminaries behind Tina in this photo. You can also find select pieces on the Chiripa website.



Monday, March 14, 2011

The Next Generation

Musings from the Feb 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

After breakfast, we visit our friends at D’Casa Ceramics. In their home workshop, the Castro family makes the fine, stoneware that you can find at Chiripa. Enrique, the veteran proprietor, worries about the general state of affairs in Mexico and the world, but is very happy that his son (also named Enrique) is now helping to run the business.  



Enrique, Sr., takes pleasure in showing us the craft that he has learned over many years, and discloses to us his secret glaze formula (no lead) which he has hand-written in pencil. 


 Enrique explains that he personally perfected his unique designs and techniques based on years of experience, including many experiments and “fracasos” (failures). There are no “fracasos” now, and the Enrique’s work shows a master’s dedication to beauty, quality and durability.
This year we found the painter working on our "house" pattern: Rosy. 
You can see the finished product on our website. Click on the image below.




Tuesday, March 8, 2011

All Good

Musings from the Feb 2011 Chiripa buying trip to Mexico.

In Guadalajara, we often stay at the old Hotel San Francisco de la Plaza. It is centrally located (though not in the very best neighborhood), and reasonably priced. An ornate chandelier (impossible to dust, and therefore undusted for 50 years or so) hangs high over the colonial-style interior courtyard. 


There is an excellent breakfast buffet, including delicious fresh papayas and plenty of coffee, which keeps us nourished for the rest of the day. The weather is clear and beautiful, but people eating breakfast wear jackets against the morning chill. 


We enjoy seeing the same dining room staff each year, including a courtly man in sport coat and tie, and a special waitress who lights up the breakfast room with good cheer. “Todo bien?” (everything fine?) she chirps, merrily.  When we say “sí, gracias,” she laughs and says “Hokay!”  (her voice fills the room). When we ask how she is doing today, the answer is always the same: “Bien, bien, bien!” Behind the counter, as she refills the coffee and tortillas, she breaks out into a spontaneous whistle as if she really, really loves her work. Imagine it! -JKM